Showing posts with label Leather. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Leather. Show all posts

Delving in to Antwerp with Delvaux

I saw so much during my weekend jaunt to Antwerp and apologise for not being able to blog about my experiences as fast as I wanted to but it was a hectic few days with limited blogging time (I know...excuses, excuses). Though the city might be be small in size, there is just so much to see in this beautiful city. As I am back in London now, it makes more sense to start at the end of my travels and work my way back, discussing the real highlights of a trip which was packed full of them. First up...a real suprise for me!


One of the last places we visited was the city's fashion museum, MoMu. Susie was desperate to see the Delvaux exhibition but I have to confess that I was less than keen. I thought the exhibition would be a showcase of luxurious handbags and little else but I'm so pleased we went because I was enthralled by the stylistic evolution of the house's output whilst seeing the often unseen side of the business, the skills of the designers and the artisans that represent the core of the company's values. A year older than the Belgian nation itself, Delvaux can claim to be the most Belgian of all luxury houses. The exhibition follows Delvaux from the maunfacture of travel goods for the local nobility in the nineteenth century, through the rise of the modern handbag in the twentieth century, to the company's vision of a new kind of elegance under its artistic director Veronique Branquinho. The creative process behind each bag has changed very little in the last sixty years, all products are still made by hand, the conpany is still in th family hands and Delvaux's output remains small but exclusive.

The travelling by train space...

Each mode of transport brought its own requirements for the baggage manufacture. founded in an era of when travel was largely horse drawn the company has survived through the revolutions and wars, and adapted to the requirements of ocean liners and railways, to bicycles, cars and jets. It is how the luxury house adapted its offering to the changing world around it which interested most whilst walking through the well curated exhibition space. Train travel assisted the rise of the modern business traveller, for whom Delvaux produced not just attache cases and document wallets, but overnight bags, equipment cases and even bespoke display trunks for travelling salesman.

The Newspaper Bag. Bruno Pieters for Delvaux, AW09-09.

I recently read about Monocle’s latest collaborative effort involves Belgian luxury brand Delvaux. Known for their leather goods, the Newspaper Bag features a woven Toile de Cuir exterior and a Basane Leather liner. The bag is sized appropriately for A4-sized documents and a laptop and I want one!

Monocle x Delvaux Newspaper Bag, available from Monocle

Besides leather-clad maps and holders for the driver's licence and Michelin guides, Delvaux provided the 1950s tourist motorist with gentleman's bags. This bags were capable of holding everything required for that perfect Kodak moment, with of course compartments for camera, pipe, postcards and even a handheld cine camera.

The cruise luggage of my dreams.

For those travelling in grand style on the ocean liners leaving Antwerp, luggage had to be capacious and extremely resistant both to impact and to damp. Delvaux certainly offered beautiful luggage which protected the cruise-wear finery of those first class travellers aboard. This selection of cases inspired the inner traveller in me, oh to travel the seas for months on end...oh, I can but dream.

Celebrating the great Surrealist, Magritte.

In Belgium, surrealism is not part of some wild, exotic dream scape but rather it infuses the everyday. This selection of bags celebrated Belgium's most famous and my favourite surrealist, Rene Magritte's 100rd Birthday and were released in 1998.

Leather working tools belonging to Bernard Gombert.

Delvaux bags are produced by a team of forty five craftsman in the atelier in Brussels and a further sixty working from a dedicated atelier in France. Each bag is immensely complex and such craft goes in to each one. One of the exhibition spaces evokes the atmosphere of the atelier and the leather store room at the Arsenal and focuses on the production of the Brilliant. The leather working tools in the exhibition belong to Bernard Gombert, head of Delvaux's technical department and I spent a good ten minutes staring at them, imagining how each instrument is used to create one of the famous bags. The exhibition was a great way to spend the final hour of my time in Antwerp. The exhibition runs until 21st February 2010 and is well worth the visit even if you aren't the worlds biggest handbag enthusiast like me!

Limited Justice

It is a collaboration which has been well documented in blog land but now the results are finally available (even online). Parisian label Surface 2 Air and Justice first got together when Surface 2 Air directed the video 'We are your friends' but now Justice have returned the favour designing a small capsule collection. The result is a a limited edition series of 3 jackets (150 pieces), and 2 jeans, conceived and designed by Parisian duo for Surface 2 Air.



My favourite piece is the Xavier Leather jacket above as I just love the contrasting detailing...so much so that the zip detail is worth a closer look.


I have to admit though...I wanted to prefer Xavier's solely because I was hoping that I wore it it might empower me to grow a moustache as cool as his. I agree with The Sunday Best that the jeans are better value but there is a certain something which makes all men want to own a kick ass leather jacket (which currently I don't have) and it might just hark all the way back to Brando in 'The Wild One'.

The next collaboration which I'm looking forward to is Topman's Black Trouser Project...moving on from the White Shirt Project a new set of designers are tasked with tackling the menswear staple which is the black trouser... most notably Aitor Throup.

Possible case of heat stroke

We get a lot of emails about a lot of things on the ol' Style Salvage email account (and, by the way, we are generally dreadful about replying- give us a kick if we forget). A lot of emails about a lot of things- menswear, womenswear, handbags, parties, blogs... even shaving your groin. We'll twitter some of them, forward on others, ignore the womenswear stuff but occasionally I'll think 'ooh, that's worth sharing'.

Madeline Hansen emailed us to let us know about her new online vintage shop, The Good Shop, and a few things caught my eye so I thought I'd share. Now these aren't the usual things I'd obsess over so either the glorious weather we've been having has given me heat stroke or maybe my tastes are changing ever so slightly.

Blue and red jumper

1940s Fly Away Sweater - $45

I know, I know, it's JUNE. I can't help it. Only last night I was bemoaning the fact that I have suddenly become obsessed with the idea of autumn again, and begging Yokoo to stop making lovely knitwear that just taunts me in the summer months. I do love this though, it reminds me vaguely of the feather-shouldered jacket that Brandon Flowers wears from time to time.

Vintage Bambi style shorts

Spring time shorts - $45

Here you go, some summer clothing! Everyone needs shorts with old-school cartoon animals on don't they? So glad you agree. Also, I just love the way they're styled in this shot.

Geometric leather jacket - $50

Ok, so this one I'm still mulling over. Short sleeved leather jacket? Brown and black? But I just can't get the image of some on Facehunter or some such site seriously rocking this. Put it down to summer madness maybe?

Oh, and if you share my madness, Madeline told us that if you use the promo code BLOGZ you'll get 15% off. Just maybe steer clear of the bikini optical illusion tee, folks!

Steve's thoughts - I've never been a successful vintage shopper and often leave London stores empty handed and disappointed. Some people have the eye for it, they can spot an interesting piece from one hundred yards even if that piece is buried under piles of poorly made 80s clothes but alas I must have my blinkers on. Madeline Hansen and her team definitely possess the gift of unearthing unique pieces and EJ has definitely picked out some of the best items (although I like the Art Skool Blazer in addition to her picks). Apologies if you fancied the Geometric Leather jacket above because I nabbed the last one in stock!

Picture postcard: ready for action

Found here
Howdy Steve!

From personal uniforms to real uniforms... I thought you'd appreciate these chaps. You know how much I love wide legged trousers, and these are no exception. I know that you shocked a few of our readers by admitting that you weren't a fan of leather coats, but surely these lovely brown jackets must meet your approval?

Oh, and that reminds me... I really must shine my shoes.

EJ

Thanks for posting this. It is beautiful.

I just love this image. It awakes the child in me who dreams of one day being a fighter pilot and looking just like this. On the style stakes this is perfect. Yes, I'm not a huge fan of leather jackets but the brown leather works so well combined with the wide legged trousers and shiney boots.
I'm not sure that I'm quite macho enough to pull this look off though.

On the uniform front, have you seen this image from Pitti Uomo...

Thom Browne's presentation declared that there is 'Beauty is Uniformity.' Something uniform was promised and duly delivered by the militarily precise arrival of forty models identically dressed in signature Thom Browne looks. The 41st model then pressed the desktop bell a number of times and the models carried out the required action. It sounds perfect. We have to return to the uniform concept at a later post because there is just so much to say.

Back(pack) to school

Whenever we are in a mile radius of Berwick Street, Susie cannot resist visiting her favourite treasure trove of handpicked women's (and men's) vintage, secondhand designer and high street clothing which is Bang Bang. As Susie rummages through the racks, I leave her to it and venture downstairs into the menswear department but as she constantly finds bargains, I have always left empty handed. The stock is frequently updated so it is all down to luck and timing but of course an eye for a bargain helps and I've never quite been able to find something which ticks all my boxes. Raf Simon coats and Savile Row suits are most common...it is all down to finding your size though which I struggle on.

When I ventured into the store this weekend I was greeted with a few sample pieces by the Australian designer, Material Boy. Mic Eaton, an ex-pro surfer, launched the label in 2003 in Perth but now divides his time between Melbourne and Indonesia. Topman Lens recently featured their designs and it is clear that this is a label which pushes menswear out of its comfort zone and it is hard not to admire the label’s originality. Ordinarily, I appreciate the designs but they aren't really to my taste...but that soon changed when I stumbled across a sample, black leather Rucksack...my Bang Bang cheery just had to be popped.

My childhood revisited - Vintage grey wool jacket, polka dot shirt by bstore, polka dot hankerchief, wrap trousers by Unconditional, white chukkas by Vans.

I've not used a backpack/rucksack in about ten years, during my last years of school and University I plumped for satchels and messenger bags instead. However, in recent months I have been on the look out for a desirable rucksack just because they are so darn useful! After seeing some of the pieces from the Raf Simons x Eastpak collaboration, I have been severely tempted on a number of occasions but I could never fully justify paying that sort of money for something which is fundamentally an Eastpak backpack...something we all had growing up. I needed something special and up stepped the offering from Material Boy.

(Feel free to click on the images to take a closer a look)

As I put the leather straps over my shoulders, a strange feeling came over me...I felt like a young boy again...was shopping or school my destination?...even Susie noticed a change. It was most strange and it soon passed as I became acquainted with my new favourite bag.

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