A seasonal fairytale

Unlike EJ, who only has a few bits to get, I still have a lot of my Christmas shopping to do over the next few days and I'm sure to encounter nightmarish scenes (my fault for not being organised enough!) but when did Christmas become so real, so much responsibility and stress? Christmas should always be a time of wonder not just one of mass consumption (both presents and food). I used to love this time of year, not just because of the unwrapping of presents which were brought to you by family members you only see once a year combined with the constant influx of food coming from the kitchen but because it was the only time of year when we all came together to create something special. It used to be a time like no other in the calender, when whole streets were transformed and excitement filled the air. The decorated tree just although lovely just doesn't fill the same anymore.

I've never been one who enjoy doing anything on a stage but I used to love dressing up as a shepherd for my annual nativity play. Now that I'm older, Christmas just isn't the same because all of the kids in my family have grown up...so it is a time when the grown up family get together not one of wonder and make believe. Don't get me wrong it is still an enjoyable time but it has lost what makes it unique. In the Christmas and New Year Issue of Fashion156, the editorial depicts a winter fairy tale and the picture book scenes just remind me of how I used to see this time of year.

As always with Fashion156 the editorial mixes new designers with some of my favourites. This jumper comes from a newly launched knitwear label called Sibling and is teamed up with YMC black trousers.

The jumper above is by Katie Eary (who is a recent RCA Grad and has been featured as part of DazedDigital's Fashion's New Optimisim) and is paired with nylon trousers by Carola Euler, boots by bstore and the fantastical look is finished with a furry mask by Soren Bach.

For some reason the above look reminds me of the Shepherd I used to play between the ages of five and ten but obviously it is how I'd love to dress the part now as opposed to how I looked back then. The look contains the best pieces from the Raf Simons AW 08 collection (the shirt and coat combo) and is worn with grey trousers by Carola Euler and hi tops by Balenciaga.

This tartan jumper comes from Balenciaga and is my favourite piece (if anyone is wealthy and would like to get me a present...). I expect a few surprises to come out from this Fashion House and look forward to see what Nicolas Ghesquière's team come up with in the New Year.

As you can see, the styling steps away from the season 'must haves' or a guide to the best party outfits which we see in the vast majority of publication and instead concentrates on original pieces that will allow you to stand out from the crowd and celebrate style at it's most fantastical. Who cares if they're not perfectly suitable for everyday wear? Hopefully, these images will at the very least transport you to the Christmas' of old before you have to return to the stress and panic which the festive season now brings.

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DIY - Cardigan Reborn

EJ certainly raised the bar with her wonderfully executed and amusing Tache Gloves (these would make a great, inexpensive Christmas Gift). For my DIY Project I wanted to create a double layered cardigan because I have been crazing one ever since I saw them strut down the LS Lowry inspired Burberry AW 08 runway but could not find a more affordable version anywhere. The colour palette that Bailey used in that show made me want to rush out and play in imaginery piles of crispy red and brown leaves...and I wanted to achieve something similar. Then I remembered about my well worn Reiss cardigan which was lying somewhat unloved at the bottom of one of my drawers. Susie actually featured this cardigan on her blog long before we started going out and it was the first time that I took notice of style and fashion blog...more importantly it was the first real opportunity for me to speak to her at work (for those of who don't know we used to work at the same office) and of course great things have later blossomed. Therefore, this Reiss cardigan deserved a much better life than the one it had found itself in. So under the guise of the Men Represent DIY Challenge, I just had to breathe fresh life into this special piece of knitwear.

What you will need...

- Two cardigans, preferably battered and old. I actually decided to treat myself to an extra fine Merino Wool Cardigan from Uniqlo in a complimentary shade because my deep aubergine Reiss Cardigan deserved a fine companion.
- Needle & thread
- Pins
- A steady hand and patience...neither of which I have!

What I did...

1) It seemed that the bottom drawer had not been too kind on the Reiss Cardigan and a repair job was needed on a few rips, tears and loose buttons, so out came the needle and thread to make some fat fingered amends.


2) Following the repair job, I carefully cut along the seams of the sleeves to create a sweater vest out of the Uniqlo cardigan. To maximise my thrifty-ness I kept hold of the sleeves because these could quickly be turned into arm warmers.

3) I've really never seen the appeal of sweater vests so continued to cut until all I was left with were the two front panels.

4) Now came the fun part. The joining of the two. I overlapped each panel and played around with it until I was happy with the appearance of the overlap (two inches at the bottom, thinning out to the top) and pinned the garments in place. All that was left now was to sew where the two seams met and the cardigans were now entwined.

Apologies for the brightness in this shot. I will post styled pictures of the cardigans later today...

I'm ashamed to say that this was the first time that I've held a needle and thread since Primary School (we took basic textiles classes in Year Four) and my technique certainly improved as the morning developed. Now that I have awoken my crafty side, I have taken the needle and thread to add leather buttons to my Angels find. Over the course of a few hours, I had breathed fresh life into two garments and hopefully this inspires you to at least think about doing the same.

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The package which saved winter

The package from Daphne has saved me from the cold!

Over the course of the last month or so I have wasted a great many hours wandering the desperate stores on the High Street (30% Off Sales Signs have become a regular feature) in the hope of finding an assortment of accessories which will keep me warm this winter. Last year Topman gave me my black ribbed arm warmers (I don't think I took them off between Christmas and the end of February) and a few other bits but this year this usually reliable source just didn't offer good quality, chunky knitted goods and neither did the others. My feet were tired and my eyes ached from the ridiculously brightly lit stores and just when I could not take any more punishment up stepped etsy seller, dlittlegarden to fill the gap in the market! Whilst I was bemoaning the lack of options on the High Street, the lovely Daphne (who as well as knits has a great blog) has been busy working on the men's knitted pieces for her etsy store and was kind enough to send a few of the items across for me to try out and model. The items she sent me were the...

"Brawl on Bowery" mitts - these are chunky knit fingerless gloves and exactly what I've been looking for over the last month. My fringers hands can now be nice and toasty!
"Christopher Street" Cowl - this is the first time that I've ever worn a cowl and I Love it. This chunky knit ribbed cowl scarf is dressed with brown leather buttons and is my favourite piece because it is so unexpected.
"Triangle Below Canal" Cap -I've recently described how I'd like more men to wear hats and in weather like this a chunky knit cable cap like this is the only answer.

My essentials to combat the cold - Knitted accessories by dlittlegarden worn with long sleeve Heatech tshirt by Uniqlo.

All of her hand knits are made out of a soft, squishy, pure wool/alpaca blend yarn that feels great against the skin and works perfectly to combat the cold. I have had great fun wearing these pieces over the course of the last week and below are my two favourite looks...

Don't be fooled by the bright sunshine. It was damn cold...not that I felt it!

The Angels Sale find was given a new lease of life by teaming it up with dlittlegarden's accesories and a HeatTech t shrit by Uniqlo. I am really enjoying mixing different shades of grey at the moment and think that it works perfectly for a winter warming look. The outfit was finished off with a Tokyo print pocket square by Muji and a Tote bought from Hurwendeki.

My second favourite look involves the current favourite items in my possession. A large purple checked pea coat from Uniqlo (I managed to find the only small in all of London!) and dlittlegarden's "Christopher Street" Cowl. If I could wear these items all day everyday I would be a happy man indeed.

The winter saving package arrived last week and it certainly made my day...in fact it made my week because I'm not sure that I could have coped with the recent cold London weather if it wasn't for her beautiful, knitted creations. From my experience, there is definitely a gap in the market for good quality, well priced knitted accessories and even though the High Street has proved fruitless for me this season, there is rich pickings on etsy thanks to crafty folk like dlittlegarden.

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DIY tash

When I saw the Jack Spade for Gap for Colette x Gap moustache gloves my first thought was 'dude, those are so sweet' (yes, I turn into an American teenager when excited). My second thought was 'I could do that'. So, for my DIY/men represent project, I did.

What you will need:
- Gloves
- Felt
- Needle & thread
- Tailors chalk
- Scissors
- Pen & paper

...and it helps to have a mirror.

(I think you know what a mirror looks like)

To start with, I drew roughly the shape of the desired tash onto my felt using tailor's chalk. I had decided to use black felt with grey gloves. The tailor's chalk didn't work brilliantly but it was enough to get the general idea. I then cut out the shape.

As you can see, it turned out a little wonky.

Wonkers!

Take two. I figured folding the felt in half, then cutting out half a moustache shape would produce something a little more even. This worked, but was a bit too small.

Small and sweet.

Take three. I had drawn out a half mustache shape on paper and used it as a guide to ensure that the tash was big enough.

Please excuse my freaky fingers.

This time the porridge was just right... um, I mean, this worked. Finally a shape and size that I was happy with!

From top to bottom: wonkers, mini and just right.

Then I put on the glove and put the moustache into position. Because it was felt on wool the tash stuck enough by itself for me to be able to let go and get a real idea of how it looked before fastening it on properly. (this is where a mirror comes in handy. I stupidly kept running into the bathroom to look until I remembered my portable mirror).

Once you're happy with the positioning, it's time to start sewing. I suppose you could use a small amount of glue to stick it on, but I wasn't convinced that this would hold. I just used a few small cross stitches in the middle of the tash- a maximum of 5 minutes sewing (I'm really cack handed and had to keep checking that it was on straight) and then I was done!

Cue idiotic picture:

This time you'll have to excuse both my freaky fingers AND my freaky face. I'm not used to taking photos of myself for the blog. And I was trying to hide my excitement about moustache gloves! Focus on the GLOVES people!

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Advent - Day Six

This Christmas, we're going for a different sort of Christmas jumper. In fact, it's not even a jumper, it's a cardigan.

Henrik Vibskiv cardigan from FarFetch

... and what a lovely cardie this one is. Christmas wishes don't come cheap, so allow us a little extravagance for a change (is £244 extravagant? I think I'm a little lame in my hedonism). This Henrik Vibskov bubble cardigan stops just around the knee and would be great for extra layering under your winter coat or over a shirt while you're roasting chesnuts on an open fire... and yes, I will actually be roasting chesnuts this December (though probably just under a grill). Also, as a general note, please wear more blue. Especially this particular shade. Thank you!

P.S. There's currently a competition open to win a £3000 shopping spree at FarFetch- what a great late Christmas present that would be! Details and how to enter can be found here. You have until 30th January 2009!

P.P.S. Steve didn't want me to tell you about this competition so that there would be more chance of him winning. But I am so good to you all that I didn't listen to him. So if you DO win, remember that and maybe buy me a new bag...

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(S)mitten

Hitch hiking my way to winter...

Whilst the mercury has been falling in recent days to create an overall feeling of discontent, I have turned to knitted accessories to keep myself warm, toasty and happy. One accessory in particular has brought huge comfort to me whilst making me feel like a wee child again. I ordered my Carolyn Massey mittens back in March along with my knited jumper and an accompanying scarf to complete a warming, winter look brought to me by one of my favourite designers. I have previously mentioned how much I loved Massey's AW09 knitwear and I followed through with it by getting out my wallet. Carolyn and her knitwear consultant Lynn created so many covetable pieces and I had to sit on my hands at one point to refrain from buying everything. As you can imagine though, having ordered my knitted accessories so early I was waiting impatiently for the weather to cool. Whilst most people were wishing for the hot sun to prolong its stay I was almost, sick of the sight of it and I longed for the sight of people scraping off ice from their car windows each morning. We might not have reached that level of chill factor just yet but the temperature has dropped enough so I can finally, reasonably wear my mittens and what mittens they are too! The contrast flecked wool pattern and textured knitted design and string detailing make them the finest knit a boy of twenty five could possibly own.

As snug as a bug, in a rug by a wood fire. Carolyn Massey for Topman navy scarf coat, scarf from COS and green corduroy shirt from Uniqlo.

My current state of cosines is secured right from my little toes which are protected by a different pair of Autumn friendly colourful socks from Uniqlo and up through to my neck which currently has double the protection, afforded by my Carolyn Massey for Topman navy scarf coat and a scarf from COS in burnt mustard yellow. The real highlights for me though are my mittens. For any doubters out there, of course a grown up child of twenty five can wear mittens...they are both practical and fun! Whilst I am crammed on to a hot, stuffy, depressed and compressed tube all I have to do is look at my new mittens and a wry smile forms on my face and the domino effect spreads the cheekiness around the carriage. I am smitten with my Massey mittens...I've just seen that if you want to be (s)mittened up then you can thanks to ASOS who have a nice collection of Carolyn Massey garb and accesosories available online.

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Louis, Louis, oh baby...

So for those who didn't see my twitter update on Saturday afternoon, we finished (a close) third (out of three) in the Fashion Hunt around Antwerp. The teams who finished in front of us demonstrated a combination of map reading accuracy and speed whilst we showcased a more gentle, measured approach, meandering our way through the city whilst taking far too many photos (as Susie's pretty collages demonstrate). In short, Aesop lied...slow and steady doesn't win the race when you are up against stylish, highly motivated and organised bloggers from Amsterdam and Paris! Despite coming last we had a lot of fun and our efforts were rewarded with gift vouchers to spend at either; Hospital (a relatively new concept store housed in a former horse stables), Elsa (a shoe and accessory boutique) and last but certainly not least Louis. Despite currently suffering from shoe buying fever I resisted the temptation for yet another whiff of that new shoe smell and headed to Louis...

Where I invested my wooden spoon prize...

An Antwerp institution, Louis was one of the first stores in Belgium to carry the work of the local and considerable design talent. Today, the boutique carries a sizable collection of Maison Martin Margiela and pieces by A.F. Vandevorst and Ann Demeulemeester. In addition to local designer fare, the shop also stocks Rick Owens, Balenciaga, and Lanvin to name only a few. Having had to recently throw away the only piece of Margiela in my wardrobe (a white tshirt bought cheaply from Century21 which just fell apart from far too much wear and tear) and inspired by oki-ni's recently unveiled archive/shrine to the influential Belgian designer, I headed straight to the MMM pieces.

The Maison Martin Margiela accessories caught my eye as soon as we entered the menswear area.

The inner Geography teacher lurking deep inside of me was instantly drawn to the ultra soft knitwear complete with fine grain leather elbow patches. I was initially taken with the camel v-neck cardigan (also available on oki-ni) but ultimately my mixed feelings towards the colour forced me to look again. In the end I plumped for a simple, softer than soft, v neck knit complete with matching leather elbow pads in an autumnal shade of forest green.

A close up on those shoulder pads, Miss Ash (my old Geography teacher) would be so proud.

The October Look from Fantastic Man that divided you lot has certainly left an impression on me. My initial style admiration has evolved in to something much more consumerist. The time where I jump in to some crisp Autumn leaves whilst singing 'Kumbayah' might be sooner than you think!

Carolyn Massey for Topman Lens scarf coat, new Maison Martin Margiela knit, blue corduroy shirt, purple jeans and grey socks all from Uniqlo, bag from COS and shoes by Mr. Hare.

Catastrophe almost struck though when my stomach cravings for something typically Belgian diverted my attentions away from my new purchase. After filling my craving belly by scoffing down a giant, ice cream topped waffle from the too tempting Desire de Lille all thoughts about my recent purchase evaporated and I left my shopping bag under neath the table. Thankfully a fellow diner chased after me as I waddled off down the street and reintroduced me to my forgotten friend. Catastrophe averted thanks to the fine people of Antwerp!

A close up of the tasty waffle which almost cost me my knit.

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Trapped between the stripes...

Cary Grant in Hitchcock's To catch a thief.

For the last week or so I have become consumed by a desire to own a certain wardrobe staple, the Breton top. Those all too familiar signature blue and white stripes were originally the garb of French sailors and fishermen but the lightweight chambray cotton versions have since become a symbol of classic cool. The traditional loose fit, wide neck and dropped shoulders that we all know and love, caught the eye of Gabrielle Chanel during a trip to the beach, or so the story goes (as demonstrated in Coco Before Chanel), and she copied the look to kick start a fashion craze and association with style which has never really subsided. However, as great as Audrey looked in her Breton creation, there is one film moment which really resonates with me when I think of those stripes: Alfred Hitchcock's To Catch A Thief. It might take a brave man to accessorise a breton top with a red silk scarf the way Cary Grant did but I think I could be just that man to give it a try...I just need to invest in this classic staple. I have seen two recent incarnations of the classic breton and both appeal to different sides of me and I have to admit to being a little torn between them...

As previously mentioned here on, for S/S 10 E. Tautz took inspiration from a set of photographs of the Duke of Windsor holidaying on the island of Majorca in the 1930’s. Patrick Grant and his team explored the whole idea of an Englishman enjoying life on the Mediterranean in the summer and the above look really caught my attention. It just exemplifies how an good an Englishman can look abroad, the relaxed, almost nonchalent tailoring is a million miles away from the larger lout beach dwellers that come to mind today.

The E. Tautz version of the breton is certainly appealling to my more classic side but there is another, very different version which is also tempting me with its charms. Susie loved Sibling's warped take on the Breton and her enthusiasm is infectious in this respect. Sibling's knitwear pieces frequently combine timeless qualities and tongue-in-cheek references, all expertly knitted with fine gauge precision that never ceases to surprise me. Here, Sibling collaborated with artist Noah Scalin (of askulladay.com) to incorporate his skull patternation into the stripes perfectly. I just can't look at it for too long because it make my eyes feel a little drunk. I am a man currently torn between two bretons. I want them both.

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Sweating in the name of fashion

During my twitter coverage of Menswear Day I mentioned to getting a tad warm and even little sweaty as the day wore on. Now, I'm not normally a sweaty chap, if I get a little hot under the collar I normally give off a healthy glow (ha!). The reasons for my slight over heating are twofold. Firstly, it was a warm, muggy day which would not have seemed out of place in the month of July but did so in the later stages of September and I was taken a by surprise. Secondly and most tellingly, I wanted to give my Carolyn Massey AW09 cable knit its first outing because it was the perfect occasion to do so...regardless of the climate! The below shot was taken at the mid point of the day when tiredness was creeping in but as it was taken by our flat guest, Phil from Street Peeper, I'm laughing because he is such a funny chap!

Carolyn Massey knit, trusty backpack by Material Boy, white t shirt and pleated grey wool trousers both by COS, socks from uniqlo and Stingray Orwells by Mr Hare. Shot by the lovely Street Peeper.

After inspecting the knitwear pieces up close (at the studio and at the Reflect Forward exhibition) I was left gushing at the cable knit pattern and I needed to own a piece and this one was just perfect. I have been in possession of this beautiful knit since mid July and it has been almost painful having to see it every morning and not having the opportunity to feel the soft, warmth of the wool because of the sporadic days of sticky sunshine we experienced at the tail end of Summer (oh boo hoo, I hear you cry and I have to concede that you'd be right but bear with me). Well, the opportunity to wear the knit to Carolyn's show and to support British menswear on the day proved too enticing and I teamed it with the best of the High Street and finished it off with those shoes. Despite seeing some folks in Spring/Summer attire I dashed from show to show, a little warm but extremely pleased. I can't wait for the temperature to drop that bit more so I can wear my knits every day!

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Style Salvage Speaks to... Universal Works

We are currently searching for the best British design and craftsmanship to feature on the blog as we feel that despite there being so much talent out there it is often over looked and neglected. Last week we stumbled across a new label, Universal Works which aims to produce well made, well considered, easy to wear, affordable menswear. Spurned on by the recent discovery of Old Town we were after quality, British made workwear inspired menswear and Universal Works certainly fits the bill. After many years of working in the fashion industry David Keyte and his team wanted to make something they were proud of, not over-designed but well cut and craftsman-made. All garments and accessories are made in small, highly skilled factories and are designed for purpose and to live way beyond one season of fashion. A pop up store showcasing the AW09 collection opened last week at 47 Lambs Conduit Street for one month only but will also be available all autumn winter from the Oliver Spencer store on the same street. The street (as profiled by Monocle last year) symbolises what can be achieved in retail areas as it champions a real community spirit and this pop up store fits in nicely. Inside, the classic collection of British workwear-inspired menswear sits alongside art work by Kay Van Bellen and features special edition t-shirt prints designed for the event by Kay. We caught up with David Keyte as he manned the store and chatted excitedly about the launch, Josef Beuys and menswear of the 50s and 80s...

Universal Works takes over Cube

Style Salvage; You have worked with companies such as Paul Smith and Maharishi, what drove you to set up your own label?
David Keyte: I have been lucky to work with great British fashion companies, working for many years with Paul was the best education in British fashion you could get. Slowly I realised I was less interested in fashion and more in the function, fit and cut of garments. Always inspired by work wear and military clothing I wanted to explore this more and decided the only way to do this was for myself. And what better time to start a new business than in the worst recession for a generation! Anyone know a good bank?

SS: Describe the collection in your own words
DK: It's a very British look, loosely based on work wear, simple honest fabrics, practical knitwear, a collection for a man who doesn't need to follow fashion but cares about how he looks but does not have try too hard.

SS: Can you talk us through some of your inspirations?
DK: I was always inspired by old guys who seem to always have on too much of their mismatched wardrobe at the same time yet look weirdly stylish; my grandad who could wear his work jacket with a pair of pleated wool baggy trousers, a fair isle slipover, a hearing aid and still look good.

SS: What are your favourite pieces from the collection?
DK: The trousers are a favourite as the fit is great (I think) and the suit waistcoat, not really part of a suit but a good looking classic. Two heavy jersey pieces; the Bomber jacket lined with light weight jersey and the climbing pant (which is not really for climbing but the perfect track pant) yet looks like a normal trouser are also favourites and are selling well.

Left: Hand Embroidered wool scarf, canvas unlined jacket. Right: Knitted Work Jacket in milano wool over knitted L/S waistcoat also in milano wool, blue oxford cotton work shirt, pleated chino pants.

SS: Is there a Universal Works man/muse?
DK: Me... or is it my granddad!?

SS: You've recently opened up your pop up store on Lambs Conduit street, what has the reaction been like to the collection?
DK: Really good, I love the street and there are some great men's stores here like Folk, Pokit and Oliver Spencer so there is already a customer for interesting men's wear coming here. Also Oliver is carrying the collection for the autumn.

SS: Provenance, craft and a sense of purpose seem to be integral parts of the label. All of which are rare traits in the industry, which other designers/brands do you admire?
DK: I have always admired the late Masimo Osti and for a British aesthetic Margaret Howell. Current favourites are Junya Watanabe, Diaki Suzuki in the USA, and Post Overalls from Japan. They all have great integrity in their work.

SS: How do you see the Universal Works label developing over the next couple of years?
DK: Continuing to work with great skilled factories and craft people and find a few more British suppliers and working with good independent retailers and maybe selling enough product to pay the mortgage.

Left: Work Jacket in cotton, white poplin classic shirt, heavy jersey climbing pants, soft wool bobble hat. Right: Bomber Jacket in heavy jersey, sand cotton pleated chino pants, work waistcoat in cotton, stripe poplin classic shirt.

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
DK: Hats

SS: What is inspiring your own personal styles at the moment? Do you have any style icons (long or short term)?
DK: Josef Beuys. a man who knew how to wear a hat... and a waistcoat. A recent trip to Japan was very inspiring, they still have a great love of craft and quality and they all look so damn good.

SS: If you could go back in time and experience any fashion/style moment, what would it be?
DK: I love the menswear of the fifties and also of the early eighties (well more Joe Strummer than new romantic!) but I prefer to live for now and am happy to be living my own style moment.

SS: Finally, have you got any recommendation that you'd like to share with our readers? (shops, hairdressers, designers, websites, bars, cafes etc)
DK: Dover Street Market is still one of the my favourites and Oi Polloi in Manchester has become a great northern institution. Bikefix another great store on Lambs Conduit St. Monmouth Coffee for the best caffeine fix in London and Grindleford Station Cafe for the best greasy spoon breakfast, but you will have to go to the Peak District to enjoy it. For websites, apart from your own great site, JJJound, detourdesign blog and acontinouslean are always good to look at and hyr collective is another good site.

Left: Work shirt in grey checked cotton, l/s henly tee in grey marl, suit jacket in herringbone brushed cotton, chino pants in same, hat in soft wool. Right: Waistcoat in herringbone brushed cotton, chino pants in same, grey check cotton work shirt.

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Sneak peak at Carolyn Massey SS10

Carolyn Massey has always been a Style Salvage favourite and it has been great to see her develop her label over the last few seasons to become one of the most significant menswear designers in the UK. This is going to be a huge year for her and deservedly so. She closed the extended menswear afternoon back in February in true style with her first solo show and since then has been beavering away on an her SS10 collection, not to mention her Topman Lens designs and various other projects! After being offered a closer look of her AW09 designs and her studio back in March she allowed me to nosey around her studio whilst salivating over her SS10 collection. The tailoring pieces weren't quite finished yet but there was more than enough to keep my eyes busy, as Carolyn added printed t shirts and additional accessories including handmade braided belts and amazing backpacks. I asked Carolyn about her inspirations for this collection and she kindly sent through the below images. She was inspired by adventure and exploration. For me the season is all about escaping the mundanity of everyday life and exploring far away lands...or beaches in Kent (in my case, ha!).

Carolyn kindly sent through a few of her inspirations for the collection.

I was privileged to have this sneak preview of the future and even more fortuitous to be able to pick Carolyn's brain as I marvelled over her wares. Below is my exploration of her the SS10 offering and I've added quotes from the lady herself which explain her thoughts and guidance on the pieces.

I couldn't stop taking pictures of the amazing accessories, the braided belts and the backpacks were amazing!

On the handmade, braided belts...
"The pieces that you photographed are based on 'Troddels' - traditionally used by the German army (post war) to place with precision the exact whereabouts of soldiers in particular regiments. Also the Japanese craft of Kumihimo was definitely an inspiration for the brading. This featured in the key rings, troddels and belts."

Massey's chunky knits and all more friendlier 'alas, poor Yorick' moment.

I fell head over heels for the chunky, cable knits in Massey's Aw09 collection and the above table of bold blue knitted creations renewed my love. Carolyn once again worked closely with her knitwear consultant Lynn to create these pieces which looked to be inspired by fishermen and explorers.

On the accessories:
"The accessories came about as a store that I work with mentioned that his customers would love to see some bags and belts from me, and I work with a really good factory that also makes these, so I thought I'd try this and see how they would be received. Its also went in so well with the inspiration for the collection- the film the Heroes of Telemark - based on the true story of Norwegian heavy water sabotage in WW2. Id also recently been on a camping trip to Dungeness, and this inspiring thinking of realistically when and where you would wear these garments. Gave them a sense of grounding, of place."

One of Carolyn's print collage t shirts.

On expanding the collection for this season:
"I've expanded the collection quite a lot this season, as showing on the catwalk was very inspiring, thinking about the whole offer of the collection. I did some T shirt styles also, which were quite fun to do, thinking about placement print- collages from found images."

The outwear on show was truly special. A featherlight trench came in bold blue and for me is the perfect everyday jacket for the season. Even on the warmest of days in fair Blighty, there is a constant threat of the odd downpour. I've been looking for a similar trench for some time, thankfully I won't have to look next year! The most surprising piece for me was the multi option hoodie/jacket hybrid which came in the sturdy waxed cotton. I described it as multi option purely because features like additional pockets, straps and even a backpack can be added to this utility jacket.

Massey's marvellous multi option jacket.

On the amazing jacket above:
"The "multi option jacket" (I love this - makes it sound so sci-fi!) we call the paracoat. I collect garments that are of interest, mostly army/navy/RAF- and this was inspired by a coat which I actually don't have any idea where it is from. It had a detachable bag on it which just seemed a bit bonkers as an idea, so I ran with it."

The collection was undoubtedly inspired by spending the so-called warmer months in the great outdoors. The pieces come together to offer protection and function whatever the weather whilst colour, including mustard yellow and rich blues, is splashed throughout to create a collection to truly covet. I will soon be leaving London for the weekend to have another trip by the Kentish seaside, looking at the forecast for the next few days, my suitcase would most certainly be improved with a few pieces from this collection.

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Bursts of colour for any weather

Wow, where did July come from? I'm certainly a little dazed and confused at the moment because London is burning. We are currently basking in glorious, uncensored sunshine but we have all experienced the unpredictable British summertime and I'm just waiting for the temperature to drop or the rain to leave me sodden. Living in ol'blighty throws up a great deal of style head scratching and even more so during the Summer months. John Smedley’s SS10 menswear collection uses fabrics suitable for anything thrown at it during the British summertime. During my recent post on my visit to John Smedley HQ I went on and on about how the latest technology was integrated with age old methods. This collection is no different. New mercerised cotton creates a range of crisp, lighter styles for warmer weather, cool merino wool for the milder days and new superfine merino jersey will be perfect for layering. There is more to this collection than protection against the weather though, just look at the bursts of colour.

"Colour can be quite medicinal, I think. Even if the weather is dark and gloomy, wearing colour rather than blending in with the clouds is much better - escapism even. A great colour can help lift your mood."

The above quote comes from Nicholas Thomas, John Smedley's Head of Menswear Design who gave these recent piece featured in the Guardian, Hannah Pool explored men's new found love of colour. You should recognise his name because he created quite a stir at Graduate Fashion Week in 2007 where he was joint winner of the River Island Gold Award, chosen for his marvellous patched knitted menswear. John Smedley snapped him up soon after and as this collection shows, it is a great fit for the young designer. The SS10 collection looks set to lift any mood regardless of the weather and I can certainly get on board with that.

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John Smedley blows out 225 candles

John Smedley flying the flag for craftsmanship here in the UK. Who said the sun never shines up North? Oh I said that...

As I have one lazy eye on the runway action over, I thought it would be nice to change the pace somewhat and take a step away from the latest collections and focus on an award winning heritage brand, John Smedley. I think it is a crying shame that we don't celebrate, great craftsmanship based here in the UK in the same way that our cousins from across the pond do (ACL being the prime example but one of many.) Still family owned, John Smedley continues to innovate whilst retaining the hand crafted finishing techniques that has established its reputation for more than two centuries yet it is the type of brand which is often taken for granted and over looked. 2009 is a landmark year for the company because it sees the family run business celebrate 225 years of making fine knitwear in the heart of the Derbyshire Dales.

The luxury British knitwear brand was founded in 1784 by John Smedley and Peter Knightingale (great-uncle of Florence) and the pair decided to set up business at Lea Mills, in Matlock as a brook provided (and still provides) a source of running water and power. I was fortunate enough to explore this factory and see it in all of its working and operating glory as I was invited up to cover the anniversary for Fashion156. It was great to experience the close knit nature of the brand on the work floor and see firsthand, how the latest technology has been integrated with age old methods.

A knitting machine with 20,000 needle components.

Wandering through the various knitting and construction stages it was great to talk to the workers, most of which had been working there for generations themselves and to watch them expertly use the machines. As I walked through and looked on at each process of a garments construction the balance between old but proven techniques and machinery alongside the latest knitting machines from Japan (some with over twenty thousand needle components) and laser presses from Holland, really left a lasting impression. This is a company that continues to learn and strive for the highest quality in a family environment like nothing I've ever encountered before.

The beginnings of a jumper...

The modern press uses lasers. Each John Smedley garment goes through three stages of hand supervised pressing to ensure correct fit and shape

The fastest use of a pair of scissors I've ever seen...this lady took less than ten seconds to expertly cut out the neck.

Highly trained seamstresses hand finish the garments, applying neck trims, buttons and John Smedley labels. Long lasting style and quality are vital ingredients to Smedley, creating sweaters which are appropriate to wear with anything, at any time.

The finishing touches...

Provenance and traceability from raw material to end product are integral to the brand and are sort after credentials by today’s consumer and rightly so! I think it is about time that we celebrated the true craftsman of the UK...I see a Made in the UK series of posts coming up.

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