Tom Ford's Rule Number Seven

"Just like girls need to learn to be comfortable in heels before they go out in them for the first time, a man should try wearing a suit throughout a normal day. I do most things in a suit - and sometimes even in a tuxedo - and so I'm really comfortable in one."

Tom Ford's 'Rules of Style' were recently featured on Men.Style and have been making the rounds on the blogosphere ever since. From I've read a number of guys are somewhat bemused by some of his rules (as am I) but surely we can all agree on the above rule. When wearing a suit or tuxedo the Texan born designer looks as though he has never worn anything else. He is so at ease in one of his sartorial ensembles that the material becomes a second skin. One of my New Year's Resolutions (I seem to have knocked up quite a few) is to wear more suits and become as comfortable in one as a pair of worn in APC jeans and a white Martin Margiela t shirt. Currently I love wearing suits (I still get that little buzz of 'power' when wearing one) but I do fidget in one whilst out and love nothing more than returning home and becoming a slob-like again.

The timing of Ford's rules coincide with the look book images for his Spring/Summer 09 collection and there are plenty of suits on show which I'd be happy to wear as my second skin. Ordinarily, I might have dismissed this collection as exaggerated Italian Dandy but I have to admit that I have simply fallen in love with the use of colour, the styling, the hair, the everything. For me, this look would be completed by watching the world go by with espresso on a piazza, an Ateliers helmet (I know these are French but they are beautiful) on the table and a Vespa parked close by. I am dreaming up an Italian summer city break already...

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Advent - Day Twelve

Bonjour from Paris. Apologies for not unveiling box number twelve on the Style Salvage Advent Calender but I have been nursing the big daddy of hangovers in my hotel room and I just could not face typing on the worlds smallest keyboards. In the true spirit of Christmas (As a child I remember watching my parents trying to set up my Scaletrix set following a boozy Christmas Eve) I have worked through the pain and present this image from Oily Boy as shown by the Sartorialist and mentioned on Tyler Brule's recent FT.com column...

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Exciting Designers - Erin Lewis

I love to feature new menswear design talent but blogs like Mensrag do it so much better than I possibly could and always beat me to the post. Fortunately for me Susie is sent a great deal of information regarding new collections from designers across the globe - some of which are menswear...but few are as exciting as Erin Lewis.

The cut of the jackets are some of the most interesting that I've seen in some time and the whole collection is styled to perfection!

According to her biography, like myself Erin was born in one of those seaside towns that they forgot to close but that is where the similarity ends. She initially trained in sculpture but a desire to learn tailoring brought her to the London College of Fashion. Her graduate collection was tailored to Saville Row standards and a collaboration with Dashing Tweeds showed both innovation and tradition - the highlight of which was a Gentleman's Cape in grey lumatwill. The result was a small collection bought by Beams-Japan. Erin sought to make the most of British design sourcing all fabrics and production from the UK.

The true highlights of the collection are the capes. Since missing out on Carolyn Massey's headmasterly cape as part of the recent Topman Lens collection, I have been looking for a cape which would excite and challenge me and Erin Lewis has designed more than one.

Since graduating, Erin has taken a job as head design of the 'Charro' collection at Mexico's leading Eco-fashion brand 'Taller Flora' (founded by Carla Fernandez, the brand focuses on making use of Mexico's skilled artisans, combining traditional textile techniques with contemporary design). Erin Lewis is certainly a name that I will remember and look out for!

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Dress as a thinker regardless of the merit of your ideas

Although University seems like a lifetime ago (and from what I remember of it, not a great deal of time was spent attending lectures or seminars) there are a few nuggets of information and strains of thought that I keep with me. The class which is most vivid in my mind today formed part of my Sociology teachings in my third year (I studied Law and Sociology art Warwick) and was titled Sociology of Knowledge, Science and Intellectuals. The role of the intellectual in the English speaking world is something of a chequered category (as opposed to continental Europe where the intellectual is treated with a great deal more respect) where there has always been a suggestion or implication than the intellectual is an ambient troublemaker and should mind his own business. Despite all this, an intellectual is surely something to aspire to and in the twenty first century it is something of an endangered species. As the ideas of intellectuals and academics might be few and far between in the modern age (are we really in a state of dumbing down?) we can atleast express a particular form of thought expression by dressing the part of someone who is a thinker. I recently wrote a letter to Hiroki of Visvim expressing my admiration for the craft of his brand and that I wanted to become a consumer. Another fantastic piece out of the Visvim Fall/Winter 2008 collection has been released for us all to salivate over.

The Academia Jacket 2L comes with a John Hanley tweed upper and a 2L Gore-Tex lining. Classic looks with up to date functionality - perfect.

The moral of my babbling above is that we can all dress as intellectuals and academics regardless of the the merit of thought and the extent of our knowlegde, all we need is the brain functioning enough to choose Visvim.

Read more in Beauty life styles »

The search for a good tailor in Hong Kong...

After hearing so much about her beloved Hong Kong, Susie is finally taking me back with her and I could not be more excited! Our plane jets off from Heathrow tomorrow evening and we will be exploring this busy city for eights full days. Whilst much of the trip will revolve around me scoffing my face with all sorts of tasty treats there will be plenty of time for me to do enjoy the sport of shopping. Dim sum, egg balls, roast goose and even snake have found themselves on the growing menu of my mind but I'd like to explore all that the city has to offer in regard to men's style as well. Top of the list is excellent, affordable tailoring. Hong Kong has long been a world-leader in producing bespoke and made to measure suits at half the price of their London and New York counterparts (whilst conceding very little on quality). Regular readers will know that my fascination with the craftsmanship of good tailoring is long held and I cannot wait to discover what Hong Kong has to offer me.

My initial research shows that there are just too many tailors in Hong Kong to tell which are of any quality. To save much head scratching on my part, I am opening up the comments section to your suggestions. Now, please don't be shy. I appreciate that even if I get a good recommendation from you, your positive experiences won't guarantee one for me, so no pressure at all. I'd love to hear from one and all. In a city where tailors are ten a penny your guidance will be invaluable.

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Need for tweed

For such a burly and utilitarian fabric, Harris Tweed evokes a great deal of romantically nostalgic feelings and the recent BBC4 series, Tweed captured this feeling wonderfully. We caught up with the director of the series, Ian Denver in September and his love and enthusiasm for this iconic textile was contagious. I had a need for tweed. Denver declared that he had "always loved and worn tweed - when the rest of my generation were getting in to pins and bondage pants, I was in Oxfam buying old Harris." Regular readers will know that I rarely fair well at second hand stores so rather than go on a fruitless quest trawling through the usual vintage store rails, I decided to go further afield. Charlie Casely-Hayford previously recommended Hornets in Kensington. I've been meaning to venture south of the river for some time now and now my visit had a purpose, a mission.

The mark of Harris Tweed.

Casely-Hayford described Hornets as "a hidden gem" which "is great for any gentleman on the search for second-hand English gentry attire." I am undoubtedly such a gentleman today. Long-established in Kensington, the trio of shops are bursting with quality tweed, serge, worsted and cavalry twill. I am told that at any given time the Hornet's range offers over two hundred tweed jackets (from £59), ranging from one to forty years old. Where better to find my Harris Tweed than the tweediest shop in the capital?

Harris Tweed jacket from Hornets, red corduroy shirt from Uniqlo and mustard scarf from COS, Unconditional wool trousers.

I can confirm that the stores are packed full of second hand English gentry attire tucked away in the side streets of Kensington. These are the places to find nice little pieces which will add a bit of class, pomp and colour to your everyday outfit. A Harris Tweed jacket certainly ticks all of these boxes. After disturbing the wonderfully attired shop keep mid hoovering, I went about my business of finding the right tweed for me. The rails are well stocked and well organised and I soon found my jacket. Yes, a few alterations are needed but in my eyes it is perfection. The colours are deceptively beautiful. A Harris Tweed yarn will routinely contain seven or eight different coloured wools, which are all blended together and then spun to create an amazingly rich texture of colour. I am going to have a lot of fun picking up the colours of the tweed in my shirts and accessories.

A seal of quality. Camart made in England.

This a tweed still woven by pedal-powered looms in the homes of Scottish sheep herders out in the outermost fringe of the British Isles. It has been this way since 1846. I now understand the history and the provenance of the cloth. There is something quite special about the Isle of Harris, Lewis and that northern chain of Hebridean islands. The materials and the colours are redolent of the sea, and the grass, the rugged life, the farming. As I watched the first show from the Tweed series and became frustrated by the plight of this famous tweed, I soon fell for its charms. I'm so pleased that I own a piece of this craft.

Harris Tweed jacket from Hornets, red corduroy shirt from Uniqlo and mustard scarf from COS.

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Style Stalking through time

The recent Good Old Days editorial from DV Man (posted last week) shook me from my state of fashion ennui and reminded me of the sartorial inspiration from old photography. I often forget that there are so many style gems to be found outside of the latest product releases, look books and magazines. I frequently whittle away the hours trawling through old sets of images on flickr soaking up inspiration but at the same time feeling a little odd...I am little more than voyeur on unfamiliar pasts. As wonderful as the found images are, I am unlikely to find out anything more about the captured moment and am frequently left with unanswered questions. When I discovered that our good friend Isobel had unearthed a number of stylish shots of her father I jumped at the chance to learn a little more about the images and thankfully she has allowed me to share them with you. Thank Is for sharing a number of images depicting her father Clive, from the sixties and early seventies. What better way to spend a grey and damp Sunday afternoon than flicking through old photos? Sit down and make yourself comfortable because you are about to go on a style journey...

The May Boat picture from 1964. Clive is top right.

The May Boat picture is from Clive's first year at Cambridge University and shows a fresh faced student trying to keep up with public school chaps (whilst working hard to mask his Northern accent). There is something quintessentially English about this shot of clean cut students and dandy school masters. The chap is the centre is wonderful. Back in February, ACL hoped that the summer would see a return of the boater hat and shared a number of wonderful flickr archive images but this gentleman wears it extremely well.

This image (also from 1964) shows the young student in reflective mood. His studying ensemble includes a brown corduroy jacket, dark striped shirt and narrow black knitted tie. He is every bit the studious young scholar here.

The chiffon neck scarf phase, 1968. "How embarrassing is that?" declares Clive.

What a difference a few years make! Here the fresh faced student student has grown in to his surroundings. Where there was almost over eager and nervous air in the previous shots, now there is an air of cool about him. Isobel feels that he looks a little Byronesque in this shot and I'd certainly agree with that notion. Clive might be a little embarrassed by his chiffon neck phase but he undoubtedly pulls it off with a degree of assured Romanticism.

In 1971 wearing a cape in blue serge!

Last but certainly not least, we have the above shot from 1971. Now, this might be from the early seventies but this look would not look out of place in London Fields today. I love everything about this shot. The length of the skinny jeans, the loafers, the unruly hair and of course the cape. The cape in blue serge is beautiful and I'd love to have something similar hanging in my wardrobe.

If you are at home and have a stack of seemingly forgotten family photo albums gathering dust on the sideboard why not make yourself a cup of tea and flick through them? Let us know how you get on...

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Readers Question - Affordable Bespoke

Hello Style Salvage,

I hope you are well. Love everything about the blog, a real refreshing (and adult) take on men's fashion. Just had a quick question which I was hoping you may be able to help me out with. I'm looking to get hold of a bespoke suit (a penchant of yours I know), but am looking to get one a little cheaper than the £2,000 price mark. Have been doing some serious reading on the askandy forum which has proved quite informative, with a few places coming highly recommended for a price of £1,000. My only slight concern is that they probably tailor for the professional classes and my 2-piece isn't for work (I work in TV so would prob be a little toooo much) but for lounging and wearing to dinner etc. Just wondered if you had any recommendations for places around the London area that may do a reasonable bespoke number, with a young-outlook. Plus, I'm tall and skinny, so any where you think they may be able to cater to that would be great. Anyway, any help you could offer would be gratefully received, even if it's just pointing me in another blog direction.

Thanks

Thomas

We love receiving readers questions here at Style Salvage (we still can't believe that people actually value our sartorial opinion) and the most recent question is my favourite thus far. I say this only because it is something that I have been questioning myself, where can I find an affordable bespoke suit without taking a trip to the Far East? I'm quite sure that there is nothing quite like dressing in bespoke. The comfort that comes from the perfect fit combined with the pleasure from owning a piece of true craftsmanship finished off by the quiet confidence you gain from knowing that there is nobody in the room better dressed. A bespoke suit is certainly worth the investment but it is taking that first leap which is quite daunting...I should know because I'm still standing on the edge of the board myself. However, receiving this question has reignited my desire to jump in to the wonderful world of bespoke myself. So as well as researching the options for Thomas I will be looking for myself as well. Over the course of the next week I will scour London and beyond for the best, affordable bespoke (and the best of the rest) solutions available which will presented to you in daily segments. There is a wealth of information out there but it is difficult to find and presented poorly at times and therefore we would like to present the ultimate guide to buying bespoke over the course of next week. In the meantime The English Cut has this great advice on picking a bespoke tailor which will hopefully wet your appetite.

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Sir Hardy Amies - A Century of Couture

He was Britain's most renowned couturier and dressmaker to the Queen for over thirty five years, not to mention a leading Savile Row tailor. Now the life and work of Sir Hardy Amies is to be celebrated with an exhibition on Saville Row. His career offered him an unrivaled insight into the world of the rich and famous. Now the nosy and the aspirational amongst us will also be able to peer into his world. His vast archive will be on show containing unseen photographs of the royal family, letters from Cecil Beaton and Margaret Thatcher, intimate diaries, sketches of his film costumes for 2001: A Space Odyssey and of course clothes will all be unveiled. Timed to coincide with the one hundredth anniversary of his birth, the exhibition, Sir Hardy Amies: A Century of Couture, opened this week and will run throughout November.

Amies' rule that "a man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care—and then forgotten all about them" is one of his gems of sartorial wisdom which is timeless.

GQ recently declared that 'if there were ever a patron saint of menswear it would have to be the late great Sir Hardy Amies. He is most fondly remembered as the author of the perennials of English style, ABC Of Men's Fashion and The Englishmen's Suit. There are very few books about men’s style worth reading, but Hardy Amies managed to write two of them. Back in 1945, Hardy Amies restored the Blitz hit derelict husk of a Regency house at No 14 Savile Row and opened his doors. Amies was widely admired for his fine tailoring, attention to detail and upper crust style. Throughout the course of his life he became a true Savile Row legend and one of its greatest patrons. It is the first time a British couture house has opened its archive to the public and those who can, should take advantage of it.

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Why does it always rain on me?

Norwegian Rain. Image from Selectism

"Growing up in Bergen, Norway means a life in rain. You can hate it or love it. No matter how you approach it, one thing is certain; it will rain tomorrow, or the day after."
Alexander Helle in an inteview with Dazed Digital.

We all grumble about the wet weather but rarely do anything about it aside from getting all wet and bothered. Travis wrote a catchy song about it in the 90s but what use is that when your soaked through in 2009? Alexander Helle and his team decided to take action. Rather than moan or write a song, they decided to create something useful. From the rainiest city in Europe, Bergen, Norwegian Rain is something of a labour of love to protect oneself from the elements. It is little surprise that this project has received a fair bit of online attention, initially on Selectism and Esquire and most recently an interview piece with Dazed Digital because the debut collection is really something to covet.

Double breasted rain coat mixed grey.

Growing up in this small, creative city in the western part of Norway sparked and shaped the 28 year old founder's decision to finally become dry and comfortable no matter what the weather. A thriving collaboration between acknowledged local designers and soaked citizens of Bergen has evolved, drop by drop. The debut collection, inspired by Japanese simplicity and Scandinavian functionalism is truly something. Selectism reliably informs us that the chaps from Bergen have worked with a high end Japanese textile maker, to ensure that the jackets remain eco-friendly by using waterproof and breathable materials made from recycled fibers. The limited edition collection, three hundred and fifty pieces (in all and all numbered), is a subtle mix of traditional men’s tailoring and the technology found in extreme rain protection.

Double breasted raincoat blue herringbone.

The Raincho is the real highlight of the debut offering. It would certainly provide a quirky and sculptural contrast to my everyday uniform but this coat offers so much more than floaty light aesthetics. Everything is considered. The two inner bike handles makes it an interesting alternative to urban bicyclers whilst the wonderfully named storm flap is made with cashmere lining for ultimate comfort on those cold and windy days. It really is time to throw away those broken umbrellas and look forward to the impending wet weather...

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Stop Motion Inspired

Inspired by stop motion, the stylish Fantastic Mr Fox.

Last month, our old chum from across the water, The Sunday Best, asked the question "Is it strange to find style inspiration in an animated movie?' and duly answered his own pondering with 'Probably not when that movie is directed by Wes Anderson and features George Clooney'. I was fortunate enough to watch the film yesterday evening and in between scoffing my face with popcorn (half salted, half sweet) and covering my nose (after someone was sick a few rows back) I was certainly inspired and in awe of the style on show in this stop motion animated film. I find style inspiration everywhere, in fact more often than not I find it in the places where you'd least expect. This is very much more a Wes Anderson film than it is the Roald Dahl book that I remember but this is no bad thing. There are all the Anderson archetypes which have made this director great; stunning visuals with an exquisite attention to detail, issues of fatherhood, musical guest appearances and literary flourishes throughout. Everything is just so - from Mr Fox's well fitted double breasted corduroy suit to Badger's pocket square. Everything is measured, everything is perfect. I certainly could take a more measured approach to my everyday dressing. Everything should have a place, I just need to find said place...

Wes Anderson illustration by James Taylor for the Guardian.

Mr Fox's ensemble is a tight-fitting corduroy suit based on fabric from one of the dandyish forty year olds own suits. Mr Fox's suit is made of orange/brown-ish corduroy. It should come as no surprise to see that its hero sports a natty double-breasted version of Anderson's beloved suit, (as captured by the Sartorialist on at least one occasion) tastefully accessorised with a few ears of wheat in the breast pocket. The whole look is akin the colour of a leaf in autumn, in fact Anderson and his team wanted the whole film to look like Autumn. It is little wonder then that this film's style resonates so strongly, as you all know, I am obsessed by the colours of the season and dressing accordingly.

Wes Anderson in Paris. Shot by the Sartorialist (who else?!)

The talented chaps over at Street Etiquette recently highlighted the virtues of corduroy and I've certainly been respecting this durable textile much more in recent years. I'm somewhat embrassed to admit that there was a time when I would outright refuse to wear anything corduroy because my adoloescent mind deemed it far too uncool for me. Thankfully, I have grown out of this phase and truly respect it for what it is, a versaitle fabric perfect for the cooler months. "I rely on corduroy," Anderson admits in the recent Guardian interview. "I've been here in London a week – this is all I've got. "They last a couple of years. I have a guy who makes them specially for me. They're very inexpensive and I can just call him up and say, 'Can I have another one please?'" I'd certainly like his tailors number. In the meantime, I plan to swing by Lambs Conduit street to pop in to Pokit to inspect their corduroy suit offering because I have heard great things about this tailors.

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Tailoring on the TV

Afer working late at the office I decided to treat myself and go out for dinner because I just couldn't face cooking. This meant that I missed the latest episode of British Style Genius which was all about tailoring. Did anyone catch it? The series which explores what makes British fashion and style distinctive continued with the tailored look - from Savile Row to Paul Smith, Fred Astaire to James Bond. The British tailoring story is one of elegant craftsmanship, where a bespoke suit takes 40 measurements and weeks of cutting and stitching by hand to complete. It pains me that British tailoring has often been better appreciated abroad than at home - hopefully the series can make one and all appreciate this somewhat unappreciated art form. The cameras travel to Japan with designer Paul Smith, whose colourful, 'classic-with-a-twist' formula has created a global style brand and more traditional Savile Row designers are following suit.

Here is a clip of Michael Caine rambling featuring Roger Moore

What excites me most about this episode is how it portrays the industry. The heart of this very British success story is shown to be an ability to combine centuries of heritage and tradition with creativity, imagination and a defiant sense of individuality as seen in the 60s psychedelic tailored designs of 'Granny Takes a Trip', the flamboyance of Tommy Nutter's suits for women and the modern cuts of today's mavericks like Ozwald Boeteng and Timothy Everest.

Thank goodness for technology, BBC iplayer means I can soon catch up on the action but whilst I wait for BBC to upload the episode I thought I would share it with you. After I've seen the show I will write a full review and hopefully share some clips with you. In the meantime, if you saw it, let us know what you thought.

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Bowing before the feet of the Afro Punks

Casely-Hayford's Kings of the Kings Land.

Soon after the day itself I mentioned, that nothing represented the diversity of menswear design talent in the capital more than Fashion East's Menswear installations. As I stalked through room after room and looked in each nook and cranny I entountered many reasons to be excited. One of the real highlights was Casely-Hayford's collection entitled Kings of the Kings Land. For SS10 the design duo took inspiration from the Kingland Road area of London where their studio is based. A seemingly unique and uncoventional corner of the city where original EastEnders co-exist with the more recently landed public school boys. This incongruous social mix conjures up a rich sartorial vocabulary which the Casely-Hayford's have used to create a new English style.

A first look at Casely-Hayford's SS10 shoes...I want them all!

Inspired by the raw energy of Kingsland Road, the collection represents a new style tribe, the Afro Punk. One of the main recurring themes of the Casely-Hayford brand is the fusion of classic, English sartorialism and British anarchy. In previous collections this manifested itself in a wonderful balance of formal tailoring and sportswear but for SS10, instead relaxed tailoring sits extremely well with tribal, handcrafted ornate embellishment. This was no more apparent than in the footwear. I left the menswear day inspired by what I had seen but was impatient to learn more about the collection and in particular the shoes...my wait is now over as the chaps sent through their SS10 accessories look book this evening.

The Quilted Albert slipper

The quilted Albert slipper is something of Casely-Hayford signature piece (00o00 was certainly excited back in May) and echoes the brand's philosophy perfectly. The Albert is the generic name given to these slippers which were made famous by Queen Victoria's husband Prince Albert.

The Allotment Creeper

The statement shoe of this season, the "Allotment Creeper", combines elements from traditional English sandals worn by allotment keepers between the 30's and 60's with the Classic Brothel Creeper. The wonderfully named, brothel creeper was originally worn during the second world war in the north African desert by the English army. When the troops returned to England, the shoes were adopted by the dominant youth cult of the time - Teddy boys and then at a later stage punks. Casely-Hayford have evolved this style symbol to represent the new youth cult and subculture of their Spring Summer 10 collection - "Afro punks". The fusion of punk subculture with traditional sandals worn by English gardeners reflects the brand DNA of English sartorialism and British anarchy.

The Ottoman

Influenced by Turkish embroidery seen on East London's Kingsland Road, the Casely-Hayford "Ottoman" combines the delicacy of Turkish embroidery with the sturdiness of a Goodyear Welt to create an elegant summer shoe which retains a rigid masculine form. This style is based on the classic English brogue, but with the ornate scroll work of Ottoman embroidery and the unstained Sole unit, the English classic is given a new context and meaning.

If I'm honest I don't think anyone would consider me to be an afro punk...but...I want to atleast wear their shoes...It is time to bow before the feet of the Kings of Kings Land.

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Time to have a little fun each morning

After encountering the below Sartorialist shot of Patrick Grant sitting front row awaiting the Jonathon Saunders show I was forced to turn to twitter like an excited little school girl. I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit here that I asked "Hands up if you have a (man) crush on Patrick Grant..." Of course many people responded by virtually raising their hands. It seems, a number of people (male and female) swoon at the mere mention of the man's name but as I step over the piles of fainted bodies who took the swooning that bit too far, I ask myself what it is that I admire about him.

Patrick Grant, shot by the Sartorialist

I have huge respect for what he has achieved since becoming the youngest guv'nor on Savile Row. He is the man behind the resurgence of the 187 year old Savile Row firm of tailors, Norton & Sons and has since relaunched the storied house of E. Tautz as a ready-to-wear collection to much, deserved acclaim. Having dressed the pre war elite, from Churchill to Cary Grant, it is a label rooted in history and the past seamlessly runs through the collections. E. Tautz championed the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear. It adheres to the age old belief that how you dress reflects your respect for the event and for your host. Edward VII, a major inspiration for the first two offerings, said it best: "Be always well and suitably dressed for every conceivable occasion." Having met Patrick Grant a number of times now and having seen the latest flurry of street style shots, both on the Sartorialist and this cheeky gem from StreetStyle Aesthetic, it is clear that he follows this mantra whilst having fun with it.

Playful tailoring, E. Tautz SS10

"I think men have lost sight of how much fun it is to be well dressed. It’s actually really fun to spend a little bit of time every morning putting your clothes on, picking tie, picking a handkerchief, choosing a shirt from your wardrobe, picking a jacket and a pair of trousers and putting it all together and feeling great in your wardrobe. It’s really a lovely thing to do each day." Patrick Grant, from an interview with SwipeLife.

I was alarmed by the number of comments below the Sartorialist image which described the ensemble as all too much, focusing on the pocket square in particular. The comments on the post combined with just a quick glance out of the window suggests that a lot of people do not experience the pleasure of dressing anymore. It is such a shame. They’ll put on a pair of jeans and a white shirt and will look perfectly good but won’t feel special about what they’re wearing. During menswear day I made the stroll up to the E. Tautz presentation and I'm glad I did. Not only did I get my first bit of food for the day, a piece of shortbread washed down with a cup of tea but I was able to view the playful Quentin Jones video whilst admiring the SS10 collection all over again. The label offers simple tailoring with a little something extra, a bit of pomp, colour, a sense of humour. It is this little extra which makes E. Tautz special.

In the interview with SwipeLife Patrick continues, "It seems like men are almost embarrassed to be well-dressed. It feels like it’s too much, or you’ve tried too hard." I think it is about time that such a belief is quashed. What I love about the E. Tautz collections thus far and how Patrick Grant dresses personally is that both clearly prescribe to the belief that dressing each morning should not be a chore or a bore. It is time to have a little fun each morning.

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Pattern Cutting as Art: A study on Anansi

To coincide with the Frieze art fair Paul Smith will be exhibiting the latest body of work from Hormazd Narielwalla entitled ‘A Study on Anansi’ from 10th to 21st October at his Furnishing Gallery. The exhibition will consist of a set of ten artworks drawing inspiration from two sources, Savile Row tailoring patterns and traditional African Anansi tales to create a new body of work.

A Study on Anansi is a celebration of the popular character from West African and Caribbean folklore brought to life using the discarded patterns. "Anansi", the trickster, is the wise and clever Earth God but I have to confess to turning to my trusty friend google, for answers. Despite my ignorance, many aspects of these stories have trickled through to Western society and into children’s stories, super-hero characters and fictional literature. In some versions of the stories Anansi created the sun, moon and all the stars. This attribute of the stories makes it through into Narielwalla’s work where Anansi dances, teases and entertains himself with his most prized creation, the sun.

I first came across Hormazd Narielwalla's work at EXIT Gallery's "A Fairytale About Fashion" exhibition. Narielwalla's Dead Man’s Patterns was a design story, beneath the trappings of menswear into the book, the man, the pattern, and his images really captured my imagination. and I just had to post about it. The artists work originates from sets of bespoke patterns, which of course belonged to former customers, now deceased, from a by-gone era. These patterns have recorded a history of intimate dialogues of customer measurements and fittings over a lifetime but no longer have any practical use to the cutter and are often discarded. The talented Hormazd takes these fragile pieces of parchment out of their original context and breathes fresh life in to the creases and careful folds, along finely traced pencil marks and measurements. Opportunities are created by giving these pieces of discarded paper a chance to breathe, simply in the act of extracting, giving them a new lease of life as art objects.

For this work, Narielwalla's uses scans, photography, his own sketches and digital composition to create a set of playful artworks that have a traditional look and appeal. Creating bespoke clothes for the rich and powerful has made Savile Row iconic but in this evocative work Narielwalla is showing us tailoring patterns, as they have never been seen. The patterns are reinterpreted and resurrected; the lives of people measured through tailoring are brought back to life as works of art through even older tales from another world.

For the past year and a half Hormazd has had the opportunity to work closely with Dege & Skinner's cutters and tailors. It is in this private tailoring environment that he truly began to consider tailoring as Art. Hormazd has recently been awarded an international scholarship to read a Doctorate in Philosophy at London College of Fashion and his main focus will be on pattern cutting as Art. The artist is currently working on the memoirs of Master Tailor and Chairman of the firm, Michael Skinner. Skinner's story will be narrated through his own pattern cutting journals whilst studying at the prestigious Tailor & Cutter Academy. I can't wait to find out more information on this project and as soon as I do, I'll share it with you. In the meantime, enjoy the selection of artwork above.

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Fashion East's Menswear Installations

Oh what a day! Yesterday was truly a celebration of menswear design talent in the capital. The eclectic bunch of designers came together beautifully to showcase how diverse menswear can really be. Yesterday, saw the exciting launch of NEW GEN Men with James Long and Carolyn Massey kicking off proceedings and then of course there was MAN later in the day which continues to be a great vehicle for launching and nurturing new talent. I've written show reports for Topman's blog (which are now live) for all of the designers involved in these shows so I don't want to speak about them again just yet. For me, nothing represented the diversity of menswear more than Fashion East's Menswear installations.

Just a few of the many highlights on show as part of Fashion East's Installations

To walk around the East Wing of Somerset House and the Vaults uncovering the beautiful alongside the weird and wonderful made me feel like a rotund little kid in a sweet shop once again. Instead of ordering quarters of Toffee Crumble and bottles of Panda Pops to wash it at down, I was salivating over Mr. Hare's hot steppers, HbyHarris' H Jacket, the Afropunk of Casely-Hayford, the spiked fetishwear of Jaiden rVa James, Sibling's skull print Breton jumpers and the list goes on and on...Here are just a few of my favourite installations...

The above slip on hot steppers are on my Spring/Summer want/need list. From left to right, Sir Jablonsky and my current favourite, the Victor Boa.

After my first mad dash round armed with my camera and notepad I decided to take a breather and headed to Mr. Hare's room where I could talk shoes and listen to to his dancehall mixtape. For his showcase room, Mr Hare created a little jungle and those inside were certainly getting a little primal over the soft leathers and cutaways...

The King Tubbys! These suede numbers are certainly going to cause a stir on the blogosphere...

As mentioned previously each shoe is named after one of his favourite dancehall generals, Cachao, King Tubby, J.Dilla, Jerry Lee Lewis and even Phil Spector all feature. As well as the introduction of these new models, Mr Hare reworked a number of highlight models from his debut collection. The below tanned version of the Kerouac's are just beautiful.

The Levan and the reworked Kerouac.

We got an exclusive look of Casely-Hayford's SS10 collection yesterday with their leading look book image but this taste only intensified my hunger to see the collection in full. Regular readers will know just how much I loved their AW09 collection and I was eager to see what they had in store for us next.

Casely-Hayford's Kings of the Kings Land.

For SS10 the design duo took inspiration from the Kingland Road area of London, a seemingly unique and uncoventional corner of the city where original EastEnders co-exist with the more recently landed public school boys. For me, when I think of the area my stomach begins to rumble as I think about the abundance of tasty yet cheap Vietnamese restaurants. For the Casely-Hayford's the incongruous social mix conjures up a rich sartorial vocabulary. The area is home to more artists than any other part of London and these creators have spawned a plethora of contemporary visual statements which have collectively forged a template for a new English style.

The pattered trousers of 80s style body builders originate from King's Gym. Chic, streamlined sportswear of the area has become something of a uniform of the modern day Rude Boys. As embroidered brogues and printed garments fuse elements of traditional English tailoring with the ornate embellishment of Turkish handwork and craft.

The palette is understated and somewhat subdued using their signature colours of mushroom, navy and cream but vibrant colours burst through the collection with accessories inspired by African textiles.

The emphasis is on lightweight tailoring, super light outerwear, transparency and print. For Casely-Hayford SS10 is about a dangerous elegance and I'm not frightened of a little danger now and then.

The last area which I'd like to quickly mention before I bore you all is H by Harris's padded cell which was located deep in the vaults and showed off his quilted accessories. We interviewed former stylist Harris Elliott back in August but this was the first real chance I had to inspect the collection up close. As mentioned previously, the debut H by Harris collection comprises of two lines, the Q hand quilted nappa leather and the SH wax hide leather collection. Styles include rucksacks, totes, weekend bags, satchels and laptop skins and of course the H jacket which I've been drooling over for some time and even more so now I've seen it.

H by Harris' H Jacket.

Read more in Beauty life styles »

Harris Tweed: Hanging by a thread

I don't know about you, but both of us at Style Salvage are a little tired of the fashion week craziness, the relentless pace of it all is headache inducing and we could do with a lie down. Of course we are excited about Wednesday but it can just be a little too much at times. With this in mind, I propose a change of pace. Go and make yourself a cup of tea, why not rustle yourself up a plate of shortbread biscuits whilst you're up, then sit down in your comfiest chair with your laptop and read through our chat with the director of the BBC4's Tweed series.

Image from Monocle

Harris Tweed is woven in a beautiful setting by workers in their own homes. It is the most iconic of all tweeds, woven by hand, and adored for decades the world over. Or it was. The current BB4 series, Tweed looks at the island industry which is now in terminal decline. With the closing of its largest mill, it’s crunch time for the business. The story of the British Isles most notable native cloth is both wonderful and frustrating. I've enjoyed watching the series immensely and are looking forward to the final episode which screens tomorrow (Tuesday 22nd September at 21:00) and will be available on iplayer soon after to digest at your viewing pleasure.

For such a burly and utilitarian fabric, Harris Tweed evokes an a great deal of romantically nostalgic feelings and this series certainly captures this. The reason being is that the tweed is still woven by pedal-powered looms in the homes of Scottish sheep herders on the outermost fringe of the British Isles, just as it has been since 1846. 2010 is make or break time for Harris Tweed. It is one of the most iconic fabrics in the world. yet, as the series documents, the outlook for the fabric is similar to the weather forecast for the Outer Hebrides, not all that sunny and bright. For those of you who refuse to watch the picture box or those living outside of the UK, you might have seen that, in their latest issue, Monocle wrote a great piece outlining the future of the famous tweed and the livelihood of its weavers. So you should all be familiar with the story, if not...read this and then watch the series. Here, we talk to director, Ian Denver to learn more about the series and his love affair with the fabric.

The idylic, remote setting where the fabric is made. Still by Guy Hills.

SS: What inspired/drove the series? Did you have an existing relationship or experience with the Harris Tweed industry?
Ian Denver: The series came after we briefly covered the story in a previous series about life and times on Savile Row (2007) We were so fascinated, that when we discussed which small world we next want to attempt to penetrate next, there was no question. I have always loved and worn tweed - when the rest of my generation were getting in to pins and bondage pants, I was in Oxfam buying old Harris. I also moved to the Yorkshire Dales to live the life. Incidentally, we interviewed Vivienne Westwood for the series and she said that in the Punk Era, Malcolm Maclaren was obsessed with tweed and tartan. We also discussed my belief that Harris Tweed, made by workers who own the means of production and produce in defiance of the global manufacturing trend, is a truly subversive cloth.

SS: Harris Tweed evokes an awful lot of romantically nostalgic feelings. Did you fall in love with the fabric and the people who make it?
Ian Denver: I did. As I said above I already loved the fabric, but the people, so un-polished and other worldly, made the whole thing a joy for me. I practically lived up there for a year.

SS: Savile Row tailor Patrick Grant who features in both episode one and the final one believes strongly in the fabric . How did you meet him and what role did he play in the making of the documentary?
Ian Denver: I had met Patrick making the Savile Row series and he was involved from the off. He studied Textile Technology before opening his business and is descended from people in the Scottish cloth trade, so he knows what he’s talking about. I never gave up my contacts with the Row and now spend my life working to be able to buy bespoke clothing. PG believes I am the only person who would even consider some of his heavier and more functional clothing. His new E.Tautz cavalry overalls being a case in point. He tried to wear them on a bicycle and couldn’t pedal. Anyway, he was committed to the idea of a series in which he and I and the islanders tried to save Harris Tweed. Clearly this was a rather grand ambition, but I hope we’ve helped. Hearts are most certainly in the right place.

There are around eight hundred fabrics and seven hundred colour variations. Still by Guy Hills.

SS: There are moments in the first two episodes where I wanted to throw my remote control at the television (mainly at Brian Haggas). The fabric certainly provokes strong feeling. Was the series difficult to film at times?
Ian Denver: The series was very hard because we had a minuscule budget and the Hebrides are notoriously expensive to get to, because so few people do. The personalities made it a joy however. I don’t mean they were all nice people, but the epic, almost Greek nature of the narrative and the beauty of the stage made it a gift. Brian Haggas you simply couldn’t make up. In episode three he commissions a Harris tweed feature film. What a Godsend. Interestingly I believe he starts as a villain, at least in the eyes of the islanders, but I believe he is actually a hero. Before him there had been no investment for decades. He may have made mistakes, but he spent more than anyone else, employed most of the weavers, albeit briefly, and created such a groundswell of opposition the industry was reborn. He says he’ll be back – and I believe he’ll actually win through in the end, with a wider variety of tweed patterns...

SS: Your series has already taken us on quite a journey. The first two episodes follow the drama in the Outer Hebrides, where we see short lived proclamations of a new savior in the form of a Yorkshire textile baron soon followed by lay-offs at Christmas. What can we expect from the final episode?
Ian Denver: The final episode sees the big Shawbost and tiny Carloway mills still going at it. Shawbost’s pet designer Deryck Walker goes to Japan in search of inspiration and creates some remarkable catwalk garments – and Alan Bain begins what might be civil war by experimenting with lighter tweed. Patrick Grant is flown in to address the weavers, and has some hard things to say about the future of the cloth. And then there’s Haggas, who becomes a photographic expert...

The magical thread. Still by Guy Hills.

SS: Having watched the series it seems clear that many people involved in the Harris Tweed industry have differing opinions on what is the best path to a successful future for the fabric. 2010 is probably make or break time for Harris Tweed, which path would you like to see it go down?
Ian Denver: I’d like to see hook-ups with major high street names and Harris Tweed produced in eye-popping designs for a new generation. I’d also like to see some of the long-lost tweed designs, particularly from the fifties and seventies, re-issued. I just want it to be huge, not least because all those in the industry who now say they hate me will have to say thanks...

SS: The series certainly instills a strong desire in me to go out and buy a Harris Tweed jacket. What would you like people to take away from it?
Ian Denver: I’d like them to infest the flights that leave Edinburgh and Glasgow and go and see the place. It is simply beautiful – on Harris in the summer, turquoise waves lap on empty white beaches. Go in autumn or spring and you’ll never want to leave, and being there forces you to want some of it on your back. I’ve never come across another fabric you just lust after. I want to eat it. Plus it’s British. This is our heritage, our gift. It’s got a great green future moments away, and the outside world is cottoning on. Shawbost mill, Harris Tweed Hebrides, has just become Textile Brand of the Year.

The certified trade mark of Harris Tweed. Still by Guy Hills
____

This series has certainly ignited a passion within. If you are interested in keeping arts and crafts, artisan businesses, communities and positive traditions alive, the Harris Tweed cause is certainly one to support. If you are interested in long lasting clothing that is good for the environment, the very antithesis of the throw-away culture that has controlled the clothing market, then you should consider this fabric.

Read more in Beauty life styles »