Advent - Day Six

This Christmas, we're going for a different sort of Christmas jumper. In fact, it's not even a jumper, it's a cardigan.

Henrik Vibskiv cardigan from FarFetch

... and what a lovely cardie this one is. Christmas wishes don't come cheap, so allow us a little extravagance for a change (is £244 extravagant? I think I'm a little lame in my hedonism). This Henrik Vibskov bubble cardigan stops just around the knee and would be great for extra layering under your winter coat or over a shirt while you're roasting chesnuts on an open fire... and yes, I will actually be roasting chesnuts this December (though probably just under a grill). Also, as a general note, please wear more blue. Especially this particular shade. Thank you!

P.S. There's currently a competition open to win a £3000 shopping spree at FarFetch- what a great late Christmas present that would be! Details and how to enter can be found here. You have until 30th January 2009!

P.P.S. Steve didn't want me to tell you about this competition so that there would be more chance of him winning. But I am so good to you all that I didn't listen to him. So if you DO win, remember that and maybe buy me a new bag...

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Advent - Day Five

The recent 'are you...' poll informed us that there are a significant amount of female readers and we would like to thank you for your support and readership by giving you some gift ideas over the next few days.

Mr Start - Purple Gift Box

Start London has helped make man shopping a little easier with a variety of curated gift boxes that work against specific colour themes. We recently posted about our love for purple and it seems that Mr Start has tapped into our desires by offering the Purple Gift Box. Shots of purple can easily be added to dark hued winter outfits with the Timex violet vintage watch, Peckham Rye silk striped tie and Pantherella dog-tooth socks. I would certainly be happy with this...

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Damir Doma

While Steve is off gallivanting in Hong Kong with his lovely lady friend, I've been left behind replying to emails and watching the darts. Thankfully for me both the darts and the emails have been surprisingly interesting. When the lovely Charlotte at oki-ni dropped us an email to let us know that the Damir Doma archive had gone live, it rang some bells.

Wait- Damir Doma, the guy that did those amazing all red outfits?

Yep.

Wait- Damir Doma, the guy who really knows a thing or two about shape?

Yep. (Man alive, that's a good outfit)

Wait, the man with those AMAZING boots with the zipper down the front?

Oh hells yes!

Wow, I love that guy. Why did I forget to post about him when I first saw his stuff? Anyway, a great choice for their archive series. Steve couldn't help but comment:

"I really like the idea of oki-ni's archive because it encourages people to think beyond the seasons and to pick key pieces from each collection. It goes against the throwaway culture of fashion. If you love a piece why not take good care of it and wear it for years to come? For a young designer like Doma it must mean a lot to be supported in such a way, with an archive that showcases his considerable design talent."

Hey Steve, quit muscling in on my posts! He's right though, it's great that they're showcasing someone so young and talented. Doma's designs are just that little bit left field- nicely androgynous with a bold use of colour and draping- while somehow still managing to be timeless (I know, I hate that word too). I am massively coveting his wide-legged trousers at the moment... and just look at these sandals!

Here's what Oki Ni's creative director, John Skelton, has to say about the man:

"Damir’s taste levels and attention to detail mixed with perfect execution and ability to create such a warm and powerful environment in which to show his work has captured the hearts and the minds of product enthusiasts all over the world."

And now if you don't mind, I'm going to finish watching the darts.

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Topman reveals my insanity

Dearest EJ

Sorry I've been quiet this week but I've been feeling a little under the weather.

I tagged along to the Spring Summer 2009 Arcadia Collections and it was nice to catch a glimpse into the world of next season. Even though I love this time of year a part of me cries out for the sunshine. It feels like a lifetime ago when I saw the MAN show in a Car Park in Soho and to be honest with you I couldn't recall the Topman Design collection aside from the neon outfits complete with matching backpacks. After seeing the garments up close this week I came away wanting a number of items but the highlight for me was...

...a navy soft leather, zip up shirt. It takes a lot to type these words but my brain is screaming out, why, what and why agin and again. I like a zip up, leather shirt. Either my tastes are changing or I have been taking crazy pills. Other highlights include Topman's version of the classic desert boot and those colourful backpacks.

Steve

Hola!

I think you've been taking the crazy pills. Short sleeved and leather? So the tops of your arms can be terribly sweaty while your forearms stay cool? Perhaps it looks nicer in person, but in that picture... no. The colourful backpacks are alright, especially the blue one, so long as they're not going to try charging 80 quid for them. The desert boots just aren't as nice as the Clarks ones. If they're significantly cheaper they might be an acceptable substitute, but they're just not cutting it for me at the moment.

Wow, this is a very disagreeable saturday morning for me so far!

EJ

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Transformation through the finer details

The real beauty of menswear is in the details. We have said this many times but neither of us will ever tire of saying it. As we catch our breath from the marathon of fashion weeks, look books and press days, it is time to celebrate the finer details of menswear. It the small details which are so often overlooked and neglected which can transform any mediocre outfit in to something special. A number of recent spots online have combined to give me the required nudge to return to our favourite stlye mantra. First up, Fine and Dandy. One year on since launching Fine and Dandy (see our previous birthday post) is a shop which provides an abundance of finishing details to ensure that you are fine and dandy. Dressing each morning should be fun and accessories like these provide the required pomp and colour. From the grey Herringbone Newsboy cap to a small gold key tie bar (my particular favourite) to an array of handkerchiefs and pocket squares. Since we wished them a very happy birthday, I've been drooling over their selection of accessories whilst declaring my intent to add more layers to my everyday outfit.

Celebrating accessories. Two looks from Fine and Dandy.

The chaps over at Street Etiquette never fail to inspire and I've really enjoyed their Accessories Are A Necessity feature. After the first post on ‘Wrist Ornaments’ they turned their attentions to the humble 'Pocket Square'. JKISSI certainly has an enviable collection. The post is an effective plea for gentlemen readers to tear at the stitching in those unused blazer pockets and experiment with material. Back in July 2007 (man we are getting old) we looked at how they are so much more than hankies but I have to confess that I often over look them. When I talk about pocket squares, it isn't in the strict sense of folded cloth, one can be as imaginative and interesting with filling a breast pocket as possible in my opinion. There are amazing styling perks with a pocket square which most men do not realise; any average or worn out jacket can be instantly livened up with an inexpensive, casually folded pocket handkerchief. Let the below image from Street Etiquette inspire you...

Wearing it well. JKISSI and his enviable collection of pocket squares. Image courtesy of Street Etiquette.

Whenever we discuss the importance of details we always turn the Fred Astaire. Few have worked them better. Astaire was not blessed with the natural aesthetic beauty of some of the his icons of style but Astaire used his style to allow his aesthetics to bloom and even surpass his peers. His style is so casual that any surprises it brings seem ever the more wonderful. He excelled in a relaxed dandyism. His sartorial success is due to the combination of a number of seemingly small touches. Of course, initially these can go unnoticed but once seen, they never fail to excite and wow the viewer. The tie as belt (my personal favourite which I have salvaged for myself), the slanted tie clip and the slim cut sleeves on his suits to name by a few of his little touches. You can watch any one of his films again and again and no doubt you will notice detail after detail. Watching Fred Astaire never fails to inspire me to celebrate the finer details of dressing whilst have fun dressing each morning. I encountered the below Garance Dore shot of Cédric last week and loved his subtle declaration. On the surface he appears to be little more than a casually dressed but cool looking guy, reading a paperback in the sun. You would think that there is very little to talk about. You would be wrong. His wife had embroidered a heart on the inside of the pocket of his shirt. Transforming it from a mundane, dishevelled denim shirt in to a conversation piece. It is all about the finer details.

Cédric as shot by garance dore.

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Need for tweed

For such a burly and utilitarian fabric, Harris Tweed evokes a great deal of romantically nostalgic feelings and the recent BBC4 series, Tweed captured this feeling wonderfully. We caught up with the director of the series, Ian Denver in September and his love and enthusiasm for this iconic textile was contagious. I had a need for tweed. Denver declared that he had "always loved and worn tweed - when the rest of my generation were getting in to pins and bondage pants, I was in Oxfam buying old Harris." Regular readers will know that I rarely fair well at second hand stores so rather than go on a fruitless quest trawling through the usual vintage store rails, I decided to go further afield. Charlie Casely-Hayford previously recommended Hornets in Kensington. I've been meaning to venture south of the river for some time now and now my visit had a purpose, a mission.

The mark of Harris Tweed.

Casely-Hayford described Hornets as "a hidden gem" which "is great for any gentleman on the search for second-hand English gentry attire." I am undoubtedly such a gentleman today. Long-established in Kensington, the trio of shops are bursting with quality tweed, serge, worsted and cavalry twill. I am told that at any given time the Hornet's range offers over two hundred tweed jackets (from £59), ranging from one to forty years old. Where better to find my Harris Tweed than the tweediest shop in the capital?

Harris Tweed jacket from Hornets, red corduroy shirt from Uniqlo and mustard scarf from COS, Unconditional wool trousers.

I can confirm that the stores are packed full of second hand English gentry attire tucked away in the side streets of Kensington. These are the places to find nice little pieces which will add a bit of class, pomp and colour to your everyday outfit. A Harris Tweed jacket certainly ticks all of these boxes. After disturbing the wonderfully attired shop keep mid hoovering, I went about my business of finding the right tweed for me. The rails are well stocked and well organised and I soon found my jacket. Yes, a few alterations are needed but in my eyes it is perfection. The colours are deceptively beautiful. A Harris Tweed yarn will routinely contain seven or eight different coloured wools, which are all blended together and then spun to create an amazingly rich texture of colour. I am going to have a lot of fun picking up the colours of the tweed in my shirts and accessories.

A seal of quality. Camart made in England.

This a tweed still woven by pedal-powered looms in the homes of Scottish sheep herders out in the outermost fringe of the British Isles. It has been this way since 1846. I now understand the history and the provenance of the cloth. There is something quite special about the Isle of Harris, Lewis and that northern chain of Hebridean islands. The materials and the colours are redolent of the sea, and the grass, the rugged life, the farming. As I watched the first show from the Tweed series and became frustrated by the plight of this famous tweed, I soon fell for its charms. I'm so pleased that I own a piece of this craft.

Harris Tweed jacket from Hornets, red corduroy shirt from Uniqlo and mustard scarf from COS.

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Happy Halloween!

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Happy (colourful) Feet

Happy Socks are a recently formed Swedish label currently attempting to conquer the world of fashion socks. We are told that they were created on a rainy Sunday afternoon (most of my best plans are hatched during this scene) and the label is determined to give the world a mood boost with a blast of colour. "We design the kind of socks we want to wear ourselves, simple as that”, says Creative Director Viktor Tell. There can be little doubt that colour has an affect on our moods but unfortunately we often over look our feet. I must admit that before I fell in love with the colours on offer at Uniqlo I only ever wore socks in monochrome shades...at a push navy but now I just love my colourful socks. However you like to dress your feet Happy Socks is well worth a visit. We hope that they don't just stop at conquering the world of fashion socks but go forth and the conquer the world. The time for a colourful sock revolution is now.

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Stop Motion Inspired

Inspired by stop motion, the stylish Fantastic Mr Fox.

Last month, our old chum from across the water, The Sunday Best, asked the question "Is it strange to find style inspiration in an animated movie?' and duly answered his own pondering with 'Probably not when that movie is directed by Wes Anderson and features George Clooney'. I was fortunate enough to watch the film yesterday evening and in between scoffing my face with popcorn (half salted, half sweet) and covering my nose (after someone was sick a few rows back) I was certainly inspired and in awe of the style on show in this stop motion animated film. I find style inspiration everywhere, in fact more often than not I find it in the places where you'd least expect. This is very much more a Wes Anderson film than it is the Roald Dahl book that I remember but this is no bad thing. There are all the Anderson archetypes which have made this director great; stunning visuals with an exquisite attention to detail, issues of fatherhood, musical guest appearances and literary flourishes throughout. Everything is just so - from Mr Fox's well fitted double breasted corduroy suit to Badger's pocket square. Everything is measured, everything is perfect. I certainly could take a more measured approach to my everyday dressing. Everything should have a place, I just need to find said place...

Wes Anderson illustration by James Taylor for the Guardian.

Mr Fox's ensemble is a tight-fitting corduroy suit based on fabric from one of the dandyish forty year olds own suits. Mr Fox's suit is made of orange/brown-ish corduroy. It should come as no surprise to see that its hero sports a natty double-breasted version of Anderson's beloved suit, (as captured by the Sartorialist on at least one occasion) tastefully accessorised with a few ears of wheat in the breast pocket. The whole look is akin the colour of a leaf in autumn, in fact Anderson and his team wanted the whole film to look like Autumn. It is little wonder then that this film's style resonates so strongly, as you all know, I am obsessed by the colours of the season and dressing accordingly.

Wes Anderson in Paris. Shot by the Sartorialist (who else?!)

The talented chaps over at Street Etiquette recently highlighted the virtues of corduroy and I've certainly been respecting this durable textile much more in recent years. I'm somewhat embrassed to admit that there was a time when I would outright refuse to wear anything corduroy because my adoloescent mind deemed it far too uncool for me. Thankfully, I have grown out of this phase and truly respect it for what it is, a versaitle fabric perfect for the cooler months. "I rely on corduroy," Anderson admits in the recent Guardian interview. "I've been here in London a week – this is all I've got. "They last a couple of years. I have a guy who makes them specially for me. They're very inexpensive and I can just call him up and say, 'Can I have another one please?'" I'd certainly like his tailors number. In the meantime, I plan to swing by Lambs Conduit street to pop in to Pokit to inspect their corduroy suit offering because I have heard great things about this tailors.

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Mix and Match this Winter with Ethosens

When there is a chill in the air which forces you to jump out of bed and into a warm shower as quickly as possible it is THE time to have some fun whilst dressing in the morning. Mensrag constantly beat me to posting about new collections but the Ethosens autumn/winter collection is so good I just don't care. As featured on Mensrag last week Tokyo based fashion label Ethosens have showcased their second autumn/winter collection which for me has the perfect combination to facilitate great winter style - a flurry of patterns, cuts and colors. Founded by Yui Hashimoto in 2007, the brand has received a warm welcome in the industry coming off a successful spring/summer 2008 showing in Paris.

According to Kanye the jacket on the right is reeetarded which according to the sland dictionary means good...

Yes, some of the looks are rather flamboyant but as the sky fades to grey, there is nothing wrong with a dash of flamboyance. The collection’s technical features contribute to a unique pairing of patterns and textiles such as their removable pant leg feature which as well being practical adds excitement and intrigue into the looks.

What I love most about this collection is that each garment’s unique look allows for unlimited mix-matching and outfit pairings. The jacket with the removable bottom section (above right) is on my Christmas list (Santa I know you are reading this because you are such a huge fan of the blog).

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In amongst the fallen leaves

Despite frequent online procrastination spent looking for street style inspiration from all of the obvious and some not so obvious places, few looks have had such a powerful cerebral effect than Fantastic Man's Look for October. Ever since my eyes first encountered the combination of autumnal hues and the comforting and playful layering (some of you declared it ''Layering on Crack' ha!) I wanted to reproduce something similar to truly celebrate the season of dropped leaves. During the marvelous month of October, we are treated to a feast of colours. The look from Fantastic Man demonstrates that, although numerous they can all be worn at once, creating a marvellous harvest festival of an outfit which left me drooling over my keyboard. In my recent picture postcard post, I mentioned that I couldn't decide what it made me want to do more, sing kumbayah or just to throw myself in a big pile of crispy fallen leaves...Well...I gave it some thought and the voices in my heads were unanimous, it was a landslide victory for the latter....

Playing in the leaves...Carolyn Massey for Topman navy scarf coat, green jumper by Maison Martin Margiela, scarf from COS, wine corduroy shirt and purple jeans both from Uniqlo and mittens by Carolyn Massey.

As I began to assess my Autumn wardrobe, bolstered by the recent purchase of colourful Uniqlo basics (corduroy shirts and socks), I was inspired to recreate an artistic challenge from one of my childhood favourite shows. Despite having little, tangible artistic talent I used to race home after school to watch Neil Buchanan's Art Attack on CITV. Of course I used to try to replicate what I saw on the screen but generally made a mess on the paper and of myself. One of shows most memorable facets was the Big Art Attacks. For those not familiar with the show, were pieces of art created by Buchanan on a huge scale, often on a playing field, tarmac ground and similar. I recall the master turning his hand (and whatever he could get his hands on) to creating a large scale forest scene so surely I could make an Autumn park scene. So, I packed my brown vintage rucksack full of Autumn colour and headed to my favourite green space in London, Hampstead Heath. London has plenty of pretty parks but when I want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city, I head to the Heath and it is at its most beautiful during these few months.

Clockwise from bottom left, purple corduroy shirt from Uniqlo, plum socks from Uniqlo, mustard scarf from COS, green corduroy shirt from Uniqlo, brown socks from Uniqlo, red scarf by Universal Works, green jumper by Maison Martin Margiela and orange socks from Uniqlo.

As you can see from the above shot, my 'Big Art Attack' was less of an impressive, large scale piece of art and more of a pile of clothes. Having found a suitably secluded, leafy spot on the Heath, I soon realised that in addition to lacking Neil Buchanan's artistic vision, my rucksack of clothes didn't quite cut it on the amount of raw materials needed to create anything close to being classed as 'Big.' Neil Buchanan I failed you. However, the pile was a celebration of Autumn...of sorts.

Green jumper by Maison Martin Margiela, scarf from COS, wine corduroy shirt and purple jeans both from Uniqlo, trainers by Converse and a vintage leather backpack.

After failing miserable at my art challenge, the only thing that could cheer me up was playing about in the dead leaves in my suitably Autumn outfit. I was always better at making a mess as opposed to a pretty picture. Oh to be eight again! Dressed head to toe in various autumnal hues, it is difficult not to have a little fun standing in a pile of crisp leaves. Am I slightly mad for wanting to dress like a fallen leaf? The answer is of course a resounding yes but do I care? Not a jot. Dressing each morning should be fun! As mentioned above, I injected a much needed shot of colour in to my wardrobe's jugular after a number of recent trips to Uniqlo. I have mentioned the 'Uniqlo effect' at least once before on the blog and the Japanese retailing power house is still having an effect on the colours hanging on my wardrobe rail and I've had a a great deal of fun experimenting with the various hues. Walk in to any Uniqlo store and you are instantly hit with an almost overwhelming number of colour variations. These colour variations confuse the mind initially but ultimately inspire. The brand's colour range has helped seduce me and many other men away from more muted tones. Due to my recent colour experimentation I've discovered that there are a number of colours that actually suit my natural colouring and tones. Colours that I would have previously steered well clear of now grace my back and wrap around my neck. Even if some colours don't work together, it is fun trying.

I first stumbled across Uniqlo's range of corduroy shirts at the beginning of September and since then I have been steadily increasing my investment in this wardrobe staple. My wardrobe now boasts a collection of four out of the six colour variants; purple, wine, olive and blue. However, as much as I adore the corduroy shirt, there is one staple from Uniqlo that I love more than any other, the sock! I find it impossible to leave a Uniqlo store without topping up the latest colour additions and now my sock drawer looks like a rainbow (every time I open it, I have expect to see a leprechaun sitting in amongst the cottons). The latest additions are perfect for autumn...

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Purple haze all in my brain

I am slowly becoming obsessed by the colour purple, I even dream purple. Ever since EJ challenged me to wear more colour in my every day outfits I have increasingly given thought to colour but I'm stuck on one in particular, purple. My mind was recently blown when EJ flaunted and taunted me with her Uniqlo purchase of purple jeans and then once again when I came across the Visvim's 08 Winter Hockney Collection and the gift of a purple offering. Be warned I might just start rocking all purple ensembles...

Purple Haze Style, clockwise from top left: Ann Demeulemeester Purple Jacket, uniqlo purple jeans, Visvim's 08 Winter Hockney Collection and thecablog's hat which I might just steal one day.

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(S)mitten

Hitch hiking my way to winter...

Whilst the mercury has been falling in recent days to create an overall feeling of discontent, I have turned to knitted accessories to keep myself warm, toasty and happy. One accessory in particular has brought huge comfort to me whilst making me feel like a wee child again. I ordered my Carolyn Massey mittens back in March along with my knited jumper and an accompanying scarf to complete a warming, winter look brought to me by one of my favourite designers. I have previously mentioned how much I loved Massey's AW09 knitwear and I followed through with it by getting out my wallet. Carolyn and her knitwear consultant Lynn created so many covetable pieces and I had to sit on my hands at one point to refrain from buying everything. As you can imagine though, having ordered my knitted accessories so early I was waiting impatiently for the weather to cool. Whilst most people were wishing for the hot sun to prolong its stay I was almost, sick of the sight of it and I longed for the sight of people scraping off ice from their car windows each morning. We might not have reached that level of chill factor just yet but the temperature has dropped enough so I can finally, reasonably wear my mittens and what mittens they are too! The contrast flecked wool pattern and textured knitted design and string detailing make them the finest knit a boy of twenty five could possibly own.

As snug as a bug, in a rug by a wood fire. Carolyn Massey for Topman navy scarf coat, scarf from COS and green corduroy shirt from Uniqlo.

My current state of cosines is secured right from my little toes which are protected by a different pair of Autumn friendly colourful socks from Uniqlo and up through to my neck which currently has double the protection, afforded by my Carolyn Massey for Topman navy scarf coat and a scarf from COS in burnt mustard yellow. The real highlights for me though are my mittens. For any doubters out there, of course a grown up child of twenty five can wear mittens...they are both practical and fun! Whilst I am crammed on to a hot, stuffy, depressed and compressed tube all I have to do is look at my new mittens and a wry smile forms on my face and the domino effect spreads the cheekiness around the carriage. I am smitten with my Massey mittens...I've just seen that if you want to be (s)mittened up then you can thanks to ASOS who have a nice collection of Carolyn Massey garb and accesosories available online.

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The beginnings of colour in Manchester

Last weekend the Style Salvage twosome were united in EJ's adopted city of Manchester. As you will remember she recently challenged me to experiment with colour in my daily style so I thought I would rummage through my wardrobe and pack some colour in my suitcase. Here are my weekend outfits....

Saturday was a wet and windy day....as I expected Manchester to be. Here is what I wore to keep me warm and dry, with a hint of colour.

The outfit - J Lindenberg Trench worn with COS studded belt, polka dot silk scarf, polka dot polo shirt, purple sweater, navy wool trousers and purple socks all from Uniqlo, b store suede shoes.

The outfit - As above, without the jacket of course. You can also notice that taking inspiration from Fred Astaire, I wore a vintage leather tie as a belt.

Sunday was something of a surprise as it was a beautifully bright day. Here is my outfit shot in classic Next catalogue pose....

The Outfit - Grey knit with blue trim from Folk, red sweater from b store, apc jeans and blue shoes by swear.

This is only the beginning in my exploration into the wonderful world of colour. I am on the hunt for all kinds of colourful accessories and I will post regular updates.

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Time to have a little fun each morning

After encountering the below Sartorialist shot of Patrick Grant sitting front row awaiting the Jonathon Saunders show I was forced to turn to twitter like an excited little school girl. I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit here that I asked "Hands up if you have a (man) crush on Patrick Grant..." Of course many people responded by virtually raising their hands. It seems, a number of people (male and female) swoon at the mere mention of the man's name but as I step over the piles of fainted bodies who took the swooning that bit too far, I ask myself what it is that I admire about him.

Patrick Grant, shot by the Sartorialist

I have huge respect for what he has achieved since becoming the youngest guv'nor on Savile Row. He is the man behind the resurgence of the 187 year old Savile Row firm of tailors, Norton & Sons and has since relaunched the storied house of E. Tautz as a ready-to-wear collection to much, deserved acclaim. Having dressed the pre war elite, from Churchill to Cary Grant, it is a label rooted in history and the past seamlessly runs through the collections. E. Tautz championed the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear. It adheres to the age old belief that how you dress reflects your respect for the event and for your host. Edward VII, a major inspiration for the first two offerings, said it best: "Be always well and suitably dressed for every conceivable occasion." Having met Patrick Grant a number of times now and having seen the latest flurry of street style shots, both on the Sartorialist and this cheeky gem from StreetStyle Aesthetic, it is clear that he follows this mantra whilst having fun with it.

Playful tailoring, E. Tautz SS10

"I think men have lost sight of how much fun it is to be well dressed. It’s actually really fun to spend a little bit of time every morning putting your clothes on, picking tie, picking a handkerchief, choosing a shirt from your wardrobe, picking a jacket and a pair of trousers and putting it all together and feeling great in your wardrobe. It’s really a lovely thing to do each day." Patrick Grant, from an interview with SwipeLife.

I was alarmed by the number of comments below the Sartorialist image which described the ensemble as all too much, focusing on the pocket square in particular. The comments on the post combined with just a quick glance out of the window suggests that a lot of people do not experience the pleasure of dressing anymore. It is such a shame. They’ll put on a pair of jeans and a white shirt and will look perfectly good but won’t feel special about what they’re wearing. During menswear day I made the stroll up to the E. Tautz presentation and I'm glad I did. Not only did I get my first bit of food for the day, a piece of shortbread washed down with a cup of tea but I was able to view the playful Quentin Jones video whilst admiring the SS10 collection all over again. The label offers simple tailoring with a little something extra, a bit of pomp, colour, a sense of humour. It is this little extra which makes E. Tautz special.

In the interview with SwipeLife Patrick continues, "It seems like men are almost embarrassed to be well-dressed. It feels like it’s too much, or you’ve tried too hard." I think it is about time that such a belief is quashed. What I love about the E. Tautz collections thus far and how Patrick Grant dresses personally is that both clearly prescribe to the belief that dressing each morning should not be a chore or a bore. It is time to have a little fun each morning.

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Picture Postcard: The look of the season

Despite the warm sunshine forcing me to squint slightly as I type this and question what my calendar is showing me, we have indeed entered the month of October. It is one of my favourite months of the year. I like nothing more than wrapping up in warm knits to explore Hampstead Heath, kicking a few leaves as I go and chasing a few squirrels if the kid in me escapes and when it all gets too cold for me, escape to the nearest pub for a pint or two by the fire. During October, we are treated to a feast of colours. The recent look from the new look Fantastic Man website demonstrates that, although numerous they can all be worn at once, creating a marvellous harvest festival of an outfit. I can't decide what it makes me want to do more, sing kumbayah or just to throw myself in a big pile of crispy fallen leaves...at the moment I think it is the latter...

The more I look at this outfit the more I see, it really is a feast for the senses. Mr. Oliver Evans (can anyone tell me who he is, google is failing me) is wearing a mustard jumper by Dries Van Noten, an olive shirt by Lanvin and a grey cardigan by Comme des Garcons. Around his neck are a patchwork jumper by Comme des Garcons and a green scarf by Lanvin which combine wonderfully. His plum trousers are by Dries Van Noten and around his waist is an olive jacket by Lanvin. The look is finished off with plum socks from Falke and breathtaking oxblood brogues from Hermes. During October, the rich colours of autumn really come into play and should be celebrated. I thought I did until I came across this ensemble, I will certainly try and create my own harvest festival of a look for the weekend.

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Satyenkumar's reflection through a lens

Satyenkumar SS10: Reflection through a lens.

You might have noticed that the Menswear Day shows were a little light on colour as many designers delivered a surprisingly dark, industrial, almost sombre colour palette. Too many depressing summers in this country maybe? Not for Satyenkumar. His collection was a kaleidoscopic travel through a lens! Inspired by sunset to sunrise, with background sounds from the Petshop Boys' Domino and underground Acid/Chicago being huge influences. Anyone hoping to bathe in the sun on a beach somewhere next summer would surely love this collection of colourful, lightweight tailoring.

Satyenkumar SS10: Reflection through a lens. Image from Fashion156

There were colour accents and blocks, in dominating base tones of grey and nude to explosive Azure, Coral and lavender with hints of tie-dye inspired prints and transparencies. I was fortunate enough to go backstage and take a few close up shots of the vibrant colour. It might have been a typical September afternoon in London but examining Satyen's colourful craftsmanship transported me to an Ibiza beach at sunset...

Satyenkumar's technicolour dream coat.

This season focusses on sharp tailoring worn with enviable ease and a timeless yet modern hybrid of classics. Seemingly weightless outwear, jean inspired trousers and pyjama shorts, sheer/dense mix shirts, rainbow-patchworked vests and featherlight unlined blazers in Swiss Voile, Habotai and Tulle. A true celebration of colour and lightweight tailoiring.

Jean inspired trousers with contrasting waistbands.

Satyenkumar is a designer who has always quietly gone about his business of creating quality tailored causal wear for the modern eccentric English playboys, almost going unnoticed at times. Daniel Jenkins has been stocking Satyen's designs for a few seasons now and has frequently reminded me of his talents. I certainly think we'll be hearing a lot more about him after watching this show and deservedly so. Here is to a Spring Summer of sunshine and colour!

A tailored summer sunset

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Colour Challenge

Dear EJ

In the below post you challenged me to introduce more colour into my wardrobe this autumn. I must admit that looking over my wardrobe_remix shots there is indeed a lacking of variation and excitement which can be brought from flashes of colour. I'm not afraid of colour, not by any means, but for everyday wear which requires little thought neutral colours prove just too attractive in the morning when I'm a little bleary eyed and thinking of my pillow. However, over the coming weeks I will bring in colour into my attire, from simple accessories (I really want the Jack Spade for Gap x Collete) to full blocks of colour which will blow your mind...

Colour can be used in so many way, through canny accessorising...

Images from left to right: Parisian Dandy in red accessories shot by thesartorialist, Waris Ahluwalia as shot by Cafe Mode, Sasha from Hel Looks

To full blown assaults of colour (and of course everything in between)....

Images clockwise from top left: Model from aw 08 Y3 collection, of the runway shot from thesartorialist, a look from JW Anderson's recent ss 09 collection and finally two images taken from Fashion156's Colour issue

In short, I accept your challenge. Be prepared for some colour.

Love

Steve

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Finding grey in the sunshine

The close up - Grey suede shoes from bstore, grey socks and navy wool trousers from uniqlo.

The British summer was something of a non entity and just as I was getting exciting about shopping for my autumnal look...the sun came out. The sun was so bright yesterday morning that it woke me up at 8:45, which is crazy early for me at the best of times, but on a Sunday...well that's just madness. It meant that I could enjoy the whole day but rather than reach for my shorts...I mean come on, it is mid September after all...so I reached for different shades of grey.

Grey shirt and suede shoes from bstore, navy trousers and grey socks from uniqlo, Polaroid case bought from unsaleable

Why hello there Stevie!

Looking fly in the greys and blues. However, I have a challenge for you. Browsing your Flickr pics and thinking over your favourite outfits, I have noticed one thinking missing: colour! Other than your bright blue double breasted cardie, I rarely see you in any real amount of full-on (or even slightly muted) colour. I demand some more colourful outfits for autumn, both casual and work-wear. Consider this a challenge.

EJ

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Harris Tweed: Hanging by a thread

I don't know about you, but both of us at Style Salvage are a little tired of the fashion week craziness, the relentless pace of it all is headache inducing and we could do with a lie down. Of course we are excited about Wednesday but it can just be a little too much at times. With this in mind, I propose a change of pace. Go and make yourself a cup of tea, why not rustle yourself up a plate of shortbread biscuits whilst you're up, then sit down in your comfiest chair with your laptop and read through our chat with the director of the BBC4's Tweed series.

Image from Monocle

Harris Tweed is woven in a beautiful setting by workers in their own homes. It is the most iconic of all tweeds, woven by hand, and adored for decades the world over. Or it was. The current BB4 series, Tweed looks at the island industry which is now in terminal decline. With the closing of its largest mill, it’s crunch time for the business. The story of the British Isles most notable native cloth is both wonderful and frustrating. I've enjoyed watching the series immensely and are looking forward to the final episode which screens tomorrow (Tuesday 22nd September at 21:00) and will be available on iplayer soon after to digest at your viewing pleasure.

For such a burly and utilitarian fabric, Harris Tweed evokes an a great deal of romantically nostalgic feelings and this series certainly captures this. The reason being is that the tweed is still woven by pedal-powered looms in the homes of Scottish sheep herders on the outermost fringe of the British Isles, just as it has been since 1846. 2010 is make or break time for Harris Tweed. It is one of the most iconic fabrics in the world. yet, as the series documents, the outlook for the fabric is similar to the weather forecast for the Outer Hebrides, not all that sunny and bright. For those of you who refuse to watch the picture box or those living outside of the UK, you might have seen that, in their latest issue, Monocle wrote a great piece outlining the future of the famous tweed and the livelihood of its weavers. So you should all be familiar with the story, if not...read this and then watch the series. Here, we talk to director, Ian Denver to learn more about the series and his love affair with the fabric.

The idylic, remote setting where the fabric is made. Still by Guy Hills.

SS: What inspired/drove the series? Did you have an existing relationship or experience with the Harris Tweed industry?
Ian Denver: The series came after we briefly covered the story in a previous series about life and times on Savile Row (2007) We were so fascinated, that when we discussed which small world we next want to attempt to penetrate next, there was no question. I have always loved and worn tweed - when the rest of my generation were getting in to pins and bondage pants, I was in Oxfam buying old Harris. I also moved to the Yorkshire Dales to live the life. Incidentally, we interviewed Vivienne Westwood for the series and she said that in the Punk Era, Malcolm Maclaren was obsessed with tweed and tartan. We also discussed my belief that Harris Tweed, made by workers who own the means of production and produce in defiance of the global manufacturing trend, is a truly subversive cloth.

SS: Harris Tweed evokes an awful lot of romantically nostalgic feelings. Did you fall in love with the fabric and the people who make it?
Ian Denver: I did. As I said above I already loved the fabric, but the people, so un-polished and other worldly, made the whole thing a joy for me. I practically lived up there for a year.

SS: Savile Row tailor Patrick Grant who features in both episode one and the final one believes strongly in the fabric . How did you meet him and what role did he play in the making of the documentary?
Ian Denver: I had met Patrick making the Savile Row series and he was involved from the off. He studied Textile Technology before opening his business and is descended from people in the Scottish cloth trade, so he knows what he’s talking about. I never gave up my contacts with the Row and now spend my life working to be able to buy bespoke clothing. PG believes I am the only person who would even consider some of his heavier and more functional clothing. His new E.Tautz cavalry overalls being a case in point. He tried to wear them on a bicycle and couldn’t pedal. Anyway, he was committed to the idea of a series in which he and I and the islanders tried to save Harris Tweed. Clearly this was a rather grand ambition, but I hope we’ve helped. Hearts are most certainly in the right place.

There are around eight hundred fabrics and seven hundred colour variations. Still by Guy Hills.

SS: There are moments in the first two episodes where I wanted to throw my remote control at the television (mainly at Brian Haggas). The fabric certainly provokes strong feeling. Was the series difficult to film at times?
Ian Denver: The series was very hard because we had a minuscule budget and the Hebrides are notoriously expensive to get to, because so few people do. The personalities made it a joy however. I don’t mean they were all nice people, but the epic, almost Greek nature of the narrative and the beauty of the stage made it a gift. Brian Haggas you simply couldn’t make up. In episode three he commissions a Harris tweed feature film. What a Godsend. Interestingly I believe he starts as a villain, at least in the eyes of the islanders, but I believe he is actually a hero. Before him there had been no investment for decades. He may have made mistakes, but he spent more than anyone else, employed most of the weavers, albeit briefly, and created such a groundswell of opposition the industry was reborn. He says he’ll be back – and I believe he’ll actually win through in the end, with a wider variety of tweed patterns...

SS: Your series has already taken us on quite a journey. The first two episodes follow the drama in the Outer Hebrides, where we see short lived proclamations of a new savior in the form of a Yorkshire textile baron soon followed by lay-offs at Christmas. What can we expect from the final episode?
Ian Denver: The final episode sees the big Shawbost and tiny Carloway mills still going at it. Shawbost’s pet designer Deryck Walker goes to Japan in search of inspiration and creates some remarkable catwalk garments – and Alan Bain begins what might be civil war by experimenting with lighter tweed. Patrick Grant is flown in to address the weavers, and has some hard things to say about the future of the cloth. And then there’s Haggas, who becomes a photographic expert...

The magical thread. Still by Guy Hills.

SS: Having watched the series it seems clear that many people involved in the Harris Tweed industry have differing opinions on what is the best path to a successful future for the fabric. 2010 is probably make or break time for Harris Tweed, which path would you like to see it go down?
Ian Denver: I’d like to see hook-ups with major high street names and Harris Tweed produced in eye-popping designs for a new generation. I’d also like to see some of the long-lost tweed designs, particularly from the fifties and seventies, re-issued. I just want it to be huge, not least because all those in the industry who now say they hate me will have to say thanks...

SS: The series certainly instills a strong desire in me to go out and buy a Harris Tweed jacket. What would you like people to take away from it?
Ian Denver: I’d like them to infest the flights that leave Edinburgh and Glasgow and go and see the place. It is simply beautiful – on Harris in the summer, turquoise waves lap on empty white beaches. Go in autumn or spring and you’ll never want to leave, and being there forces you to want some of it on your back. I’ve never come across another fabric you just lust after. I want to eat it. Plus it’s British. This is our heritage, our gift. It’s got a great green future moments away, and the outside world is cottoning on. Shawbost mill, Harris Tweed Hebrides, has just become Textile Brand of the Year.

The certified trade mark of Harris Tweed. Still by Guy Hills
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This series has certainly ignited a passion within. If you are interested in keeping arts and crafts, artisan businesses, communities and positive traditions alive, the Harris Tweed cause is certainly one to support. If you are interested in long lasting clothing that is good for the environment, the very antithesis of the throw-away culture that has controlled the clothing market, then you should consider this fabric.

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