Looking back with the help of Penthouse

First things first, we hope you all had a very Merry Festive Break! Secondly, as we prepare to bid farewell to 2008 our thoughts are often preoccupied by the promise of a New Year (I was reliably informed by Charlie Brooker that they will call this new year 2009...to be honest with you I'm a little disappointed, my fingers were crossed for it to be named Steve...the Year of Steve has a much better ring to it) but lets be different. We often look forward at this stage in the year but one of my Christmas presents has helped me challenge this usual festive occurrence and I've decided to swivel my neck owl like and look back...way back. The presents in question were two old issues of Penthouse - The Magazine for Men (from 1968 and 1969 respectively). and unfortunately, it is safe to say that they don't make them like that anymore. The content is wonderfully diverse, for example articles include; an interview with Steve Abrams who champions the campaign to legalise cannabis, The Promiscuity Myth which discusses how homosapiens have always 'gone in for' marriage, The Do-It-Yourself Capitalist, an interview with Otto Von Habsburg who was once heir to the Austro-Hungrarian empire and became a political author and lecturer. I would love to unearth a magazine which covered such an eclectic mix of issues today (with the odd shot of a natural breast or two thrown in as well) but for now I will just have to settle for Monocle but will write to Tyler Brûlé in the New Year requesting a few bare breasts. As well as great articles there are a couple of interesting editorials, not to mention a few classic advertisements which will provide inspiration for the coming year.

Apologies for the poor image quality (I really need to invest in a scanner)...

Skin Game is my favourite editorial and sees a wonderful combination of monochrome, smoky /soft focus shots with sheepskin jackets and a pigskin suede trench coat. Accompanying the imagery was the following blurb which seems hell bent on ensuring the readers knows where the materials came from...Button out the cold this winter in sheepskin and suede. Bulk has been sheared away with body-shaping and closer-fitting cut. There are many exciting new colours this season, too. After all, once the original owner has died there is no reason why its and coat shouldn't be dyed, too - makes it more individual for the next owner. As for wear and warmth, that remains built-in. Lasts a lifetime-and it did for the previous owners.

I've never seen this many buckles in one shot...

Something Afoot sees an organised pile of varied shoes used to breathe new life into the old adage that 'you can tell a gentlemen by his shoes' by suggesting that you can now (well since 1968) tell that the gentlemen is in fashion. I adore this double page spread but rather than inspire me to put my best foot forward, I have to agree with the title that there is something afoot and it seems to be the penchant of double buckles and too much tanned leather...

There were just sooo many poses to choose from but here are two of my favourite looks

Get in the picture with ICI Fibres depicts Seth Cohen's style icon in an album of leisurewear made from a combination of relatively new fandangled fabrics ranging from bri-nylon, bri-nova and crimplene...but I love the poses more than anything else and will certainly try a few in my upcoming style posts...

So, rather than let your thoughts get distracted by the promises of tomorrow why not take some time out and have a look back at the past. You don't have to look at old porn magazines but I would certainly recommend it!

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A seasonal fairytale

Unlike EJ, who only has a few bits to get, I still have a lot of my Christmas shopping to do over the next few days and I'm sure to encounter nightmarish scenes (my fault for not being organised enough!) but when did Christmas become so real, so much responsibility and stress? Christmas should always be a time of wonder not just one of mass consumption (both presents and food). I used to love this time of year, not just because of the unwrapping of presents which were brought to you by family members you only see once a year combined with the constant influx of food coming from the kitchen but because it was the only time of year when we all came together to create something special. It used to be a time like no other in the calender, when whole streets were transformed and excitement filled the air. The decorated tree just although lovely just doesn't fill the same anymore.

I've never been one who enjoy doing anything on a stage but I used to love dressing up as a shepherd for my annual nativity play. Now that I'm older, Christmas just isn't the same because all of the kids in my family have grown up...so it is a time when the grown up family get together not one of wonder and make believe. Don't get me wrong it is still an enjoyable time but it has lost what makes it unique. In the Christmas and New Year Issue of Fashion156, the editorial depicts a winter fairy tale and the picture book scenes just remind me of how I used to see this time of year.

As always with Fashion156 the editorial mixes new designers with some of my favourites. This jumper comes from a newly launched knitwear label called Sibling and is teamed up with YMC black trousers.

The jumper above is by Katie Eary (who is a recent RCA Grad and has been featured as part of DazedDigital's Fashion's New Optimisim) and is paired with nylon trousers by Carola Euler, boots by bstore and the fantastical look is finished with a furry mask by Soren Bach.

For some reason the above look reminds me of the Shepherd I used to play between the ages of five and ten but obviously it is how I'd love to dress the part now as opposed to how I looked back then. The look contains the best pieces from the Raf Simons AW 08 collection (the shirt and coat combo) and is worn with grey trousers by Carola Euler and hi tops by Balenciaga.

This tartan jumper comes from Balenciaga and is my favourite piece (if anyone is wealthy and would like to get me a present...). I expect a few surprises to come out from this Fashion House and look forward to see what Nicolas Ghesquière's team come up with in the New Year.

As you can see, the styling steps away from the season 'must haves' or a guide to the best party outfits which we see in the vast majority of publication and instead concentrates on original pieces that will allow you to stand out from the crowd and celebrate style at it's most fantastical. Who cares if they're not perfectly suitable for everyday wear? Hopefully, these images will at the very least transport you to the Christmas' of old before you have to return to the stress and panic which the festive season now brings.

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Inspired by Jonathan+Olivia

Jonathan+Olivia is a forward minded fashion boutique based in Vancouver which features international clothing for both men and women (including the likes of Acne, Hyden Yoo, Rag&Bone, Robert Geller, Stansfield...). The boutique was named after the owner's (Jackie O'Brien) niece and nephew which I find unbelievably cute as I have visions of stylish little toddlers (as per the Parisian Toddler featured last month) but I guess the name will be less cute when they get older...

Within issue eight of h(y)r collective (which has become one of my favourite online reads) the store has presented it's Autumn/Winter 08 lookbook as part of the the issues editorial feature and the relaxed but somewhat romantic Autumn scenes depicted make me realise that I just didn't play in the leaves enough this year.

The style of the editorial has made me want to do something similar on the blog. A somewhat candid but (attempted) stylish look in to what we'll be wearing in the coming season. The Spring/Summer 09 look books are fast being shown here and within the rest of the blogosphere but expect a Style Salvage attempt sometime in the New Year. I am envisioning a roadtrip to the seaside, I want donkeys and sandy beaches...In all seriousness this lookbook has inspired me to take more personal style shots and I've added this to my ever growing New Year's Resolution lists which is now more like the original transcript of Kerouac's 'On the Road' than your average list...

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Advent - Day Seven

The eventful year of 2008 has certainly been a year of the collaboration (the highlights for me being Acne x Lanvin and Raf Simons x Fred Perry) and there is certainly time to squeeze a few more in before the year ends. I stumbled across my first three way on hypebeast yesterday and the below image permeated the thick cobwebs surrounding my brain and gave it a wake up slap.

New York-based contemporary brand Band of Outsiders, United Arrows’ Beauty & Youth and Japanese online magazine honeyee.com have worked together to create a bowtie and necktie. This certainly sounds like a lot of hands to create two relatively simple accessories but the resulting bow tie and in particular, how it has been styled in this shot (it reminds me of Christmas morning for some reason) is worthy of applause and I would be happy to receive this in my stocking!

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Advent - Day Four

Before we inundate you with gift ideas and musings on the festive season, I wanted to hijack the advent calender a little while longer and just share an amazing magazine cover with you for box number four...

Image courtesy of thenonplace

The latest issue of Dazed&Confused Japan features a simply awesome illustrated cover and story by one of my favourite designers Aitor Throup. Throughout 2008 I have periodically returned to Throup's site to marvel at his comic book style sketches so it is a real treat to know that some unseen ones have been published in Dazed Japan. I just need to seek it out either in the basement of the Japan Centre or alternatively online...

My new years resolution for 2009 is to learn (some) Japanese because as Thom Wong keep commenting; 'they do everything better' and it would be nice to tell them that when I manage to get over there.

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Monocle Shop - A small haven from the hustle and bustle of Central London shopping

You might have noticed on previous posts that I am an avid reader of Monocle. It is the only monthly (well it can almost be classed as a monthly) that I read from cover to cover and take great delight in keeping because they are such a good resource! At the helm of the magazine is a man both myself and TheSundayBest hate to love who is constantly pushing the publication forward and in new directions. The latest direction is the Monocle Shop (located just off London’s Marylebone High Street) and I just had to brave the wet, grey London afternoon today to take a peek inside (unfortunately I took my camera but left my memory card in the laptop, so the images are provided from Monocle). The shop showcases the full Monocle range of products that have been created in partnership with leading design brands such as Comme des Garçons, Porter, Valextra, Artek and Drakes London.

At just just nine sq metres in size (it is only a touch larger than my childhood bedroom which only allowed my bed, a small television set and my sega mega drive) but it is so welcoming and feels so homely. The shop feels like a well thought out living room., summed up by prints of Alexis Armanet's Sumo Shots adorning the wall above the fireplace ..I just wish it was my living room! I was instantly greeted by a chirpy assistant who was happy to chat and show me the range of products. Upon showing me the Porter Baby Boston Bag I was so very close to sacrificing all self control and handing over my debit card to the lovely lady and asking to take one of everything! Fortunately, just before I could reach into my card wallet and begin mass purchasing everything from the array of goods, in walked Yoshitsugu Tagaki who is Production Editor of KitaKoga which pushed my excitement levels over the edge and I couldn't take any more...I paid for the latest issue and departed with a smile on my face.

Before I left, the helpful assistant informed me that the space will constantly evolve, the stock will change on a regular basis right up until the shop closes in March. This store is a safe haven away from the crowds and madness of Oxford Street...I know where I will be shopping for Christmas Gifts (for others...but mostly for myself!) and if you have a chance you should definitely pop in.

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Designer of the Year - Honey I shrunk the suit

Unsurprisingly GQ have name Thom Browne 'Designer of the Year' in their December issue and there cannot be too many complaints out there...are there? I'm hard pushed to come up with a single other menswear designer who has created such a stir after his shows, not to mention the fact that his indicative style has been replicated throughout the world. Never before have I seen men sporting cuffed trousers complimented by no socks on the scale I have seen on the streets of London this year and this is down to the influence of one man.

Men's style is such an interesting and constantly evolving entity. Who would've thought just a few years ago that someone who advocated high trousers and the shrunken suit would become the toast of the sartorial town? Browne started selling the suits we have grown to love in 2001 and his collections have always been focused around the suit, building on its links to menswear from the past and how the oddity of its proportions threw its reference points into postmodern relief. Since 2001 Browne has of course received many plaudits but he has also received a great deal of negative reviews - there is a constant criticism that the designer is making clothes that look weird on anyone who isn't Thom Browne...I have however seen many Thom Browne's walking the streets this year. His designs have slowly eroded many of our beliefs on what a good suit should be, he has made us question many things about something so simple (or so we thought) as the practical, 'safe' option, the suit. He has done this to such an extent that the same people who initially laughed at the proportions of his creations are now desperate for his next line, whilst feeling self conscious if their ankles are covered. In my opinion he deserves the designer of the year accolade for this alone. Are you happy with GQ's choice?

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Whisky leads to a nothing to lose mentality

My first assignment for Fashion156 was to interview Rankin to discuss his latest project over a beer. The project is a collaboration with Macallan Scotch Whisky where he has produced 1000 Polaroids which were exhibited over the weekend and are being used to make one hell of a Christmas present - each unique Polaroid is encased in a black leather box together with a bottle of Macallan's Fine Oak 30 year old whisky and printed with a label to match the specific Polaroid - just don't ask how much it costs. As well as talking about whisky Rankin was happy to talk about everything and anything, ranging from the recession, Dazed & Confused and his thoughts on the fashion industry. The highlight for me was the discussion surrounding the evolution of Dazed & Confused magazine out of the last recession:

Fashion156: We are constantly bombarded with the news of the current financial crisis. As the last recession was one of the catalysts of forming Dazed&Confused, what do you see coming out of this one?

Rankin: (It is) Interesting that you said that because a lot of people don’t realise what a recession or financial crisis actually does. For me it creates potential because there is nothing to lose, which is a classic way for you to realise your potential and that’s what happened to us. Out of poverty comes great creativity. Just look at all of the great bands that have come out of having nothing because they have nothing to lose. It’s all gone a bit post-modern now though, everyone plans their success.

Hours after the interview all I could think about was what might come out of the latest recession. It inspired me to roll my creative sleeves up and do something whilst riding this 'nothing to lose mentality'. What would you like to see evolve out of this current economic crisis?

NB - The whole of the interview (split into two parts) can be read over on Fashion156's Blog.

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Magazine Musings

Last week we received an email from a Graphic Design student at Staffordshire University, who is writing a Design Report Project on Men's Lifestyle Magazines, asking for our thoughts. It is well documented that I am something of a magazine addict, I often take great pleasure in re-reading through the piles of magazines dotted throughout the flat and I spend far too much time and money in Borders on Charing Cross Road. Anyway, below are my responses and it would be great if you could let us know what you think as well.

If you were to create a men's style magazine, what features and topics would you include?

Wow, what a thought. I would like it to examine everything that inspires and excites me. So many men's style magazines have an extremely narrow point of view, covering topics, styling and designers in a cyclical, formulaic way and I would want to keep people guessing. I admire the ACNE Paper's openness to anything and everything. You really don't know what to expect from page to page. In terms of features it would have to roughly follow the following structure; editors letter including an inspiration mood board, the features section - news, an eye on an upcoming designer, interviews, style icons, culture overview, a buyer's and shop guide, fashion editorials - which would make up at least a quarter of the magazine and would mix designers, reader's style questions, how-to-tips (styling, modification and grooming).

What is the best men's style magazine out at the moment?

I have many favourites but the clear winner is Fantastic Man. It has changed the landscape of men's style magazines for the better, with so many of its competitors and blogs taking inspiration from it. Monocle deserves a mention because it the most interesting and all consuming magazines available. I have a terrible habit of buying and then rapidly flicking through the crisp pages before discarding the recently bought magazine for a later read through (sometimes I forget all about it) but this is impossible with issues of Monocle. You have to take time and actually read the content confined within that small package.

Is the editorial design important to you as a consumer?

I expect every, single aspect of a magazine to be well thought out and work - the editorial design plays an important role and should not be overlooked. I personally like a mix of editorial designs within a single magazine and unfortunately none (that I've found/read anyway) manage to pull this off or maybe they just don't want to. I like simple and clean design (as seen in Fantastic Man) alongside the more varied and frantic design layouts more akin to Japanese Street Mags.

What importance do men's style magazines have to today's man?

Men's style magazines certainly have a role to play in the lives of the majority of style conscious men. They have evolved (certainly for the better) as I have grown up with them. I am quite sure that there is at least one magazine for us all. I am certainly not alone in my addiction/obsession but there are a number of stylish men out there (the Cablog is a prime example) who take no notice of them at all.

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Picture Postcards: The good old days

The good old days by Carl Bengtsson for DV Man. Images courtesy of The Fashionisto.

Even for a magazine junkie like myself, many editorials seem to blur in to one and I take very little style inspiration from any of them. Over the last couple of months or so I've flicked through freshly bought issues all too quickly and have yet to summon the desire to reopen them. It is safe to say that I've been a little disappointed by the fashion on show in the latest issues of my favourite magazines and I think it might be time to look further afield. The Fashionisto never ceases to showcase the best editorials from around the globe and from time to time he unearths a real gem. The Good Old Days by Carl Bengtsson’s is one such gem. The editorial was taken from the Autumn issue of DV Man and since I first stumbled across it last week the images have been playing on my mind.

When I'm in a state of ennui about the seemingly relententless pace of fashion, I often trawl through a selection of archives on flickr (with the Library of Congress being a particular favourite) for alternative inspiration. At times, even though I love the style demonstrated in the shots it can be difficult to translate this is in to modern day attire. This editorial does just that. The introductory blurb to this DV Man editorial succinctly reads, 'An age of cheeky rascals and debonair merchants, a time when things really were better.' There is an age old charm in the shots themselves but also in the styling. The spread of images certainly captures a bygone era but the styling avoids the obvious trap falls of appearing like costumes and little more. The nostalgic styling by Ursula Wangander features designers including Acne, Rogues Gallery, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Old Touch, Jil Sander and Carin Wester to name just a few. The editorial has renewed my enthusiasm for print editorials and inspired me to trawl through image archives on the hunt for more sartoriaol gems strewn throughout history....expect quite a few related posts in the coming weeks...

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Buck Magazine Review - The tea party

Dearest EJ

The first issue of BUCK came out last week and I managed to pick it up from the smallest of newsagents come tuck shops just outside of my workplace - if I can get it there it must be widely available because ordinarily they have none of my usual reads. Have you had a chance to flick through it yet at the newstands? To celebrate the launch of this men's lifestyle magazine aimed at twenty somethings we had to do something special and what could be more special than throwing a tea party where I could discuss the issue with one Susie Bubble. We were inspired by a recent documentary which we caught on BBC4 the other night on David Oglivy (the first and real Mad Man - I recommend the documentary if you've not seen it already) who without fail had tea at 4:30. Who knows maybe we can make this a regular feature and throw tea parties across the land where one and all can discuss the goings on within menswear over a cup of tea and a biscuit. The world would be a better place if everything shut down at tea time and practiced this great tradition.

As a first issue this is really promising, the aesthetics of each page are impressive and they are filled with varied content, everything from recipes to home furnishings to how to tie a bow tie. For me this publication fills a gap within the men's style magazine market. For too long the focus has been on aspirational men's lifestyle magazines for middle aged men and as the menswear market has developed in recent years it is great to see the magazine market grow and support it. There are a number of exciting menswear designers - J.W Anderson, Siv Stodal, Carola Euler, SOAR, Bjork & McElligott to name just a few (a number are featured in this issue) and it is great to see a magazine give such designers a platform and voice rather than merely showcasing the usual suspects. My only concern would be it's appeal outside of London and I fear that it will be your main criticsim as well. However, there are so many anglophiles interested in the London scene that this magazine will have a solid readership from the off. What more, the second issue is the New York issue - so a variety of location focus looks to be a key facet of the publication and it should be able to keep everyone happy! I am keen to see how they approach the New York issue, I hope it manages to keep the insider feel and that it unearths some interesting finds.

I have to admit that I was a little unsure about the title of the magazine when I first heard it and we did talk about this when we first heard about the magazine but the Editor's (Steve Doyle) letter helped to change my mind:

"I needed a name that conjured up this man - young, independent, a man who doesn't want to be instructed to buy a lifestyle but wishes to see what's new and inspiring from across the globe. A man who does his own thing regardless. In the great tradition of the English eccentric, a modern renaissance man; a young Buck."

We invite you into our strange little world...would you care for a coffee and walnut cake? This video makes me realise the degree to which I am Susie's little bit of rough though, I need to take classes in annunciation!

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Past. Present. Future

Faced with a weekend without my good friend the Internet, not to mention two tiresome train journeys I made sure I packed a few magazines for my recent trip back home to Kent. As I waited for my train to arrive at the platform, I doubted whether the latest issues of Monocle and Man About Town would provide enough printed entertainment so went on a last minute publication dash to the poorly stocked WH Smith at Victoria Station. After a few minutes of indecision perusing the sorry excuse for a newsagent I plumped for the Inside/Outside issue of i-D. Aside from the odd flick through at Borders or whilst I'm waiting for my turn to sit on the hairdressers chair, I've not read an issue for months. I'm glad I did though because this issue is packed full of features which kept my mind occupied throughout the journey. Highlights include chats with JW Anderson, Patrick Ervell and Thomas Engel-Hart, a Tao editorial and an up close and personal with Karl Lagerfeld. However, it is the feature on Aitor Throup which really captured my imagination and in particular the below image...

Image from Aitor Throup, used in i-D Fall 09. Concept and Styling by Aitor Throup, Photography by Neil Bedford with Styling Assistant Stephen Mann.

The feature focuses on the designers technically advanced reinterpretation of C.P Company's most iconic jackets. Of course, I've already posted about this collaboration (twice in fact) so I won;t rehash the details again but I just wanted to share the image with you. The above image, dreamt up and styled by the designer himself wonderfully illustrates how he approached the collaboration. The image was accompanied by an insightful interview with the publications Deputy Editor, Holly Shackleton and provided the highlight of my train journey. I could quite happily post the interview in its entirety but it might be best to just pick out my favourite question and answer.

What type of man do you envisage wearing the jacket?
I hope that the big followers and collectors of this iconic piece will embrace it and appreciate its integrity. I would love for the rich narrative, which is part of the design, to help introduce C.P. Company to people who perhaps didn't realise just how much integrity and heritage there is in this brand. Stylistically it's a really accessible piece. It can be seen as a really directional statement on one person, whilst on another it can look quite normal. I'd love to see a variety of completely different people wearing it in different ways.

At the exhibition launch on Thursday, I noted the variety of people in attendance. There were C.P Company representatives, next to brand enthusiasts and collectors (a few wearing releases of the iconic jacket) sandwiched between the fashion crowd and frequent exhibition opening attendees. I am quite certain that most people in attendance took something different away with them but all were united in agreement that the exciting design talent had bought the goggle jacket firmly in the twenty first century.

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Buck - First Issue News

We featured the launch of the online side of the magazine earlier in the month, we are now mere days away from the global launch of the actual magazine and I've been invited to the launch! From the 30th October the magazine will be available nationwide throughout the UK as it is will be stocked in the usual places including Borders and WHSmith and even Tesco, Marks & Spencer and ASDA! OK, so I know most of you live outside of the UK but don't worry it will be available internationally! It will be on sale in 35 Barnes & Noble stores in the US, and independent retailers in New York, San Francisco, Tokyo, Paris, and Milan from issue!

BUCK is apparently the first monthly men’s magazine in the UK to feature global street style in every issue and the first to combine fashion and design articles with significant food coverage (it caters for all my favourite needs (excuse the pun)). Most admiringly and interestingly, the magazine will be a showcase for new creative talent and will feature up and coming artists, bands and actors talking about their own style and tastes. Hopefully BUCK will become a must read for me...I'm eager to get my hands on it and judge it for myself and of course I'll share it with you. My magazine addiction will no doubt continue to bankrupt me...

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Chase is the VMAN but Testino Takes Over

The latest cover VMAN features Gossip Girl star Chace Crawford, shot by Mario Testino

The latest issue of VMAN (which is the first ever winter issue!) is now available. As yet I've not managed to pick it up myself but I just had to remark on the cover. The cover boy is Chace Crawford, who if you don't know stars in one of my (many) guilty pleasures TV shows (I really should get out more and more importantly not admit to these things), Gossip Girl wearing D&G plaid. I have to admit though that when I first saw the cover I asked myself 'Why is Zac Efron' on the cover of VMAN...'Is VMAN turning into TeenVogue' (another guilty pleasure). I'm not 100% sold on the styling but I've certainly had enough of Efron for one lifetime.

For the magazine's first Winter Issue Mario Testino is guest editor. Within the issue he explores the extremes of masculinity. Testino explains “masculinity has come to be determined less by a man’s exterior than by his kindness, his fairness, his taste, his behavior. Now, you can look like one thing and be completely the opposite. I’m quite fascinated by this, so I decided to do a study of the extremes of masculine identity today.” Testino photographed thirteen extreme male archetypes, including Extreme Sun (the beach bum), Extreme ink (tattooed men), and Extreme Macho (bearded men), the other ten are a mystery until I get my hands on the issue. Have anyone read it? Should I hit the streets in search of it?

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Taking Pleasure in Everday Wear

Pleasure Wear: Early morning shopping in a Visvim blouson jacket and a Tokito jacket, before slipping in to a Farmers Market jumper and donning the Oliver Peoples spectacles to catch up on a week's worth of magazines. Monocle November 09. Photographer, Seishi Shirakawa. Fashion Editor, Akio Hasegawa.

Having been placed in solitary confinement these past few days I've hardly left the flat. Thanks to the latest issue of Monocle (a brilliant read which will inspire any budding entrepreneur to take the plunge) I have been able to live vicariously through Yusuke Hirayama as he wanders around Tokyo going about his daily business. I just had to share the images with you. The concept of a personal uniform is an interesting one and one which we often return to on the blog. Monocle's Pleasure Wear fashion editorial takes this idea of dressing for the everyday but rather than depicting a set, static ensemble presents which we adopt as a second skin, it looks for dressing especiallyfor each of the different scenarios we might (wish) to encounter.

Enjoying a toasted sandwich and a ginger ale whilst wearing a Mackintosh coat, Dunhill jacket, United Arrows knit and a shirt by Camiceria Thienese.

In Tokyo a day off work is a rare treat, so whether you spend it restocking the cupboards with essentials, walking through the park or working your way through your magazine stash, you'll need the perfect attire. This spread of images instills a desire to insert the odd, additional outfit change in to my day. Edward VII, a major inspiration for the first two offerings of E. Tautz, said it best, "Be always well and suitably dressed for every conceivable occasion." As we might encounter a number of different occassions each day, why not plan for a wardrobe change?

Descending in to Ginza to pick up a few essentials, not to mention the odd admiring glance.

Regular, Monocle readers will recognise Yusuke Hirayama as the publications ever present male model and his editorials never fail to inspire me but this spread of images stoked my everyday style fires. His styling throughout these few pages are faultless. Within the Contributors page we are informed that he's been breaking in to acting and is playing a character in Kadakawa's soon to be released Warau Keikan. Additionally, we are told that on his days off from work, he enjoys practicing martial arts, including karate...no doubt at all times he appears utterly stylish. if you've not had a chance to do so yet, I suggest that you go out and pick up the latest issue of Monocle and why not amend your attire accordingly...

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Kimmel's (not Beechams) all in one

In recent weeks my blog posts have dedicated themselves to rejoicing in the joys of Autumn. I was seduced by the layering opportunities afforded by that playful chill in the air. Momentarily dazed by the harvest of colour all around. My interest peaked at the sound of crunching leaves in a new pair of shoes. As wonderful as the warm autumnal hues and all that come with them are, there are of course many negatives which come with this season. The choruses of kumbaya have now come to an abrupt end on the turntable of my mind and an all round darker record has been placed under the needles blasting out a symphony of moans and groans accompanied by a percussion of sneezes and wheezes. Oh woe is me. How could I forget that this season brings so much ill health. If you've not been struck down with some variant yourself, no doubt you are sitting near someone who is more akin to a beige sock filled with mucus than a human being (or at the very least a chap struck down with a red, wet nose who is eager to to remind you of their fate). There have been times over the last few days which I've felt truly terrible and I've spent the entire day in bed today feeling more than a little sorry for myself. Sick of lying and sleeping but still feeling awful I decided to flick through issues of my favourite old magazines. Practically, a member of the living dead my mind was not ready to tackle the latest issues of Monocle, Man About Town or Let The Eat Cake which are crying out to be read, so I turned to familiar paper friends which my eyes have glanced over time and time again...

A Fantastic Man. Adam Kimmel wears a black cotton unijohn with horn buttons from his AW09.

The first dose of magazine medicine was Issue Six of Fantastic Man. I have to confess that I began to feel a little better as I flicked through the piece on stunning architect Rem Koolhaas and the classic cuts for today's gentleman feature but it was the interview with Adam Kimmel along with the accompanying spread of images which forced me to leave my soft prison to post. In all but one of the images shot by Alexei Hay, the no nonsense designer is modelling creations from his AW07 collection. Alongside an appropriation of workwear fabrics and textures, the all in one soon became a trademark look for Kimmel and it was here again in his working man meets post-Beat art star collection. Kimmel's clothing is defiantly masculine and inspired by the past and present macho artists of New York. It is the sight of kimmel's unijohn which prodded my to brain and forced me to type this post. The unijohn becomes surprisingly appealing in my current state of health. My current sartorial situation does not paint a pretty picture. Having been reminded of the Adam Kimmel spread on those monochrome pages of my favourite style journal, my striped pj bottoms from Marks & Spencers combined with an overwashed off white t shirt just don't cut it anymore....in fact when should they ever have? No, my friends...I need a unijohn. For those unfamiliar with Kimmel's reworking of a classic, it resembles something between a pair of long johns and an oversized romper suit, all realised in the softest cashmere.

Adam wearing a grey vintage unijohn by faith and then wearing a sports blue cotton jersey unijohn from his aw07 line.

Kimmel's all in one certainly leaves a better taste in my mounth than the Beechams all in one I am forcing down my throat...

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Another way to procrastinate...

The Internet is a wonderful yet dangerous place as it fuels my innate desire to procrastinate from all forms of real work (one of these days it might get me into trouble but until that day I'm just going to enjoy where my whims take me). The latest procrastination gift came in the form of online magazine Scoute which focuses on fashion, travel and culture. The magazine published its first issue in May (so I can raid the archives and keep myself busy) and I love the format and most importantly the focused attention it gives to menswear. The latest issue introduced me to Boris Bidjan Saberi, a menswear designer with a distinct style and keen eye for detail and finish who has up until now passed under my radar. Scoute informs me that Saberi has presented his collections since s/s 08 at the Barcelona fashion week, and in fall 2008 his garments started reaching stores such as L'Eclaireur in Paris and Darklands, Berlin....his desire for nothing but perfection might limit his garments availability but we can't begrudge him on this.

Scoute talked to the designer in Barcelona about his background and work, you can read the article here.

Tomorrow whilst raiding the archives I will read up on the magazine's guide to shopping in Antwerp...by the weekend I hope to have booked my Eurostar tickets to explore the coolest Flemish city in Belgium. Happy procrastinating to you all!

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Arena Homme makes it to 30

"Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months"

Oscar Wilde

The new issue of Arena Homme + kept myself and Susie (who bought and then read Vogue all in the space of 5 minutes) entertained on the train back home to Kent. The new issue marks the 30th Issue Anniversary of this quite awesome bi-annual and came in a choice of three covers (photographed by Willy Vanderperre, fashion by Olivier Rizzo and accompanied with illustrations by M/M (Paris). Beginning with the cover the anniversary issue portrays an other worldliness inspired by Dickens and Wilde and is full of crazed characters, a fair bit of vanity and a surprising number of epigrams - a world I would like to frequent. Over the last few years we have gone through something of a golden period in men's fashion and there can be no doubt that Nick Logan's creation has been a part of and indeed facilitator of this time. Nick Logon (who also gave us The Face and Smash Hits) is a publishing pioneer and recently stated that "Homme+ is probably my proudest achievement. To realise a magazine that competes internationally, where all of those big designers and brands from Italy and France really felt it was a must to be in it was always really something for me.To be based in London at a time where magazines like Homme+ did not exist, it felt like the entry into another world." Now that the baton has been passed on to a new generation, the magazine is still at the forefront. Happy Anniversary Arena Homme +.

Below are the highlights from the main editorial 'A Young Man of Extraordinary Beauty' where they present fifteen Homme+ boys of past and present.

The final look in the bottom right is my favourite. Lucas wears wool sleeveless jacket and cotton t shirt by Dior Homm (s/s 09), silk lace scarf (worn as vest underneath) by Number Nine (s/s 09), eslastic armour made from customised martin Margiella Bustier, finishedd of with an 18k gold safety pin by Commes des Garcons. I would like Olivier Rizzo to dress me every day.

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Good Train Reading

I just read the news over on Kanye's blog that a conversation between him and none other than Raf Simons features in Interview Magazine, I would not pair these two up so it should prove to be an interesting read. My lunchtime tomorrow will be spent stocking up on magazines for the late afternoon journey up to see EJ in rainy Manchester...my travel bag is going to be heavy! Talking of which, I need to go and pack! After she challenged me to introduce colour into my everyday style she has raised the stakes somewhat...Pictures will be posted soon.

Kanye (rocking LV) pictured in Paris with Oliver Zahm (oozing 70s sexuality) by Tommy

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Picture Postcard: The look of the season

Despite the warm sunshine forcing me to squint slightly as I type this and question what my calendar is showing me, we have indeed entered the month of October. It is one of my favourite months of the year. I like nothing more than wrapping up in warm knits to explore Hampstead Heath, kicking a few leaves as I go and chasing a few squirrels if the kid in me escapes and when it all gets too cold for me, escape to the nearest pub for a pint or two by the fire. During October, we are treated to a feast of colours. The recent look from the new look Fantastic Man website demonstrates that, although numerous they can all be worn at once, creating a marvellous harvest festival of an outfit. I can't decide what it makes me want to do more, sing kumbayah or just to throw myself in a big pile of crispy fallen leaves...at the moment I think it is the latter...

The more I look at this outfit the more I see, it really is a feast for the senses. Mr. Oliver Evans (can anyone tell me who he is, google is failing me) is wearing a mustard jumper by Dries Van Noten, an olive shirt by Lanvin and a grey cardigan by Comme des Garcons. Around his neck are a patchwork jumper by Comme des Garcons and a green scarf by Lanvin which combine wonderfully. His plum trousers are by Dries Van Noten and around his waist is an olive jacket by Lanvin. The look is finished off with plum socks from Falke and breathtaking oxblood brogues from Hermes. During October, the rich colours of autumn really come into play and should be celebrated. I thought I did until I came across this ensemble, I will certainly try and create my own harvest festival of a look for the weekend.

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