Advent - Day Nineteen

Daniel Jenkins is one of the many friends that we have made this year through writing this blog. His passion for menswear and his vision for his own boutique in deepest, darkest Wales is both contagious and inspiring. Box number nineteen on our advent calender reveals Daniel Jenkins' store Christmas Card...

Seasons greetings from Daniel Jenkins (Welsh Translation - Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year)

As well as seasonal greetings in Welsh the scene features his three dogs (Inigo and Vesper the Cocker Spaniel puppies and Hector the whippet) doing a rather able job of accessorising his Stansfield, Siv Stodal, April77 and Satyenkumar get up.

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Inspired by Jonathan+Olivia

Jonathan+Olivia is a forward minded fashion boutique based in Vancouver which features international clothing for both men and women (including the likes of Acne, Hyden Yoo, Rag&Bone, Robert Geller, Stansfield...). The boutique was named after the owner's (Jackie O'Brien) niece and nephew which I find unbelievably cute as I have visions of stylish little toddlers (as per the Parisian Toddler featured last month) but I guess the name will be less cute when they get older...

Within issue eight of h(y)r collective (which has become one of my favourite online reads) the store has presented it's Autumn/Winter 08 lookbook as part of the the issues editorial feature and the relaxed but somewhat romantic Autumn scenes depicted make me realise that I just didn't play in the leaves enough this year.

The style of the editorial has made me want to do something similar on the blog. A somewhat candid but (attempted) stylish look in to what we'll be wearing in the coming season. The Spring/Summer 09 look books are fast being shown here and within the rest of the blogosphere but expect a Style Salvage attempt sometime in the New Year. I am envisioning a roadtrip to the seaside, I want donkeys and sandy beaches...In all seriousness this lookbook has inspired me to take more personal style shots and I've added this to my ever growing New Year's Resolution lists which is now more like the original transcript of Kerouac's 'On the Road' than your average list...

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Monocle Shop - A small haven from the hustle and bustle of Central London shopping

You might have noticed on previous posts that I am an avid reader of Monocle. It is the only monthly (well it can almost be classed as a monthly) that I read from cover to cover and take great delight in keeping because they are such a good resource! At the helm of the magazine is a man both myself and TheSundayBest hate to love who is constantly pushing the publication forward and in new directions. The latest direction is the Monocle Shop (located just off London’s Marylebone High Street) and I just had to brave the wet, grey London afternoon today to take a peek inside (unfortunately I took my camera but left my memory card in the laptop, so the images are provided from Monocle). The shop showcases the full Monocle range of products that have been created in partnership with leading design brands such as Comme des Garçons, Porter, Valextra, Artek and Drakes London.

At just just nine sq metres in size (it is only a touch larger than my childhood bedroom which only allowed my bed, a small television set and my sega mega drive) but it is so welcoming and feels so homely. The shop feels like a well thought out living room., summed up by prints of Alexis Armanet's Sumo Shots adorning the wall above the fireplace ..I just wish it was my living room! I was instantly greeted by a chirpy assistant who was happy to chat and show me the range of products. Upon showing me the Porter Baby Boston Bag I was so very close to sacrificing all self control and handing over my debit card to the lovely lady and asking to take one of everything! Fortunately, just before I could reach into my card wallet and begin mass purchasing everything from the array of goods, in walked Yoshitsugu Tagaki who is Production Editor of KitaKoga which pushed my excitement levels over the edge and I couldn't take any more...I paid for the latest issue and departed with a smile on my face.

Before I left, the helpful assistant informed me that the space will constantly evolve, the stock will change on a regular basis right up until the shop closes in March. This store is a safe haven away from the crowds and madness of Oxford Street...I know where I will be shopping for Christmas Gifts (for others...but mostly for myself!) and if you have a chance you should definitely pop in.

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The shoe that fits...

Shoes worth waiting for...Lodger's Striped Oxford.

In an era before shoe stores, every pair of shoes was custom made. Lodger Footwear are dedicated to reviving the tradition of custom made footwear through the combination of age old handcrafted techniques alongside the use of modern technology. Back in July my head was turned by their latest shoe of the month. The breathtaking Striped Oxford was duly added to my shoe list and after saving the required pennies needed, I decided to invest in a pair. Inspired by the Duke of Windsor (undoubtedly one of the best dressed men of all time) the design is a interesting blend of fine Scabal striped linen and burnished French calf. It is this combination which makes it a great addition to the shoe pile for the warmer months. All in all, these make for a fine investment. The only downside was I had to play the waiting game because the shoe had to be custom made. I only describe it as a downside merely because I am an impatient chap, however, after my initial finger tapping moments my outlook altered. As the weeks passed, I increasingly became excited by the thought that my shoes were being made to order. To my specification. I began to truly appreciate what I was about to receive. Now the time has come and my shoes are ready, they are mine and they are truly something.

From the regular emails I received to update me on the shoe making progress right through to the moment I entered the Clifford Street store to pick up the finished pieces, I knew these were special shoes. This was carried through to how the shoes were beautifully packaged. The folks at Lodger don't like waste, so they give the customer a box that they will want to keep and actually help organise their shoe collection.

The shoe bag is specifically designed to cradle the shape of the new shoes perfectly whilst minimising waste. Every pair of Lodgers comes complete with a pair of bespoke shoe trees that are turned from the original last used to make the shoes. As they are built to exactly the same size as my shoes, they will keep them perfectly formed for many summers to come.

Lodger Footwear have an irrational passion for beautiful shoes and they quite remarkably release a new shoe each month. Each shoe is individually made using the latest technology in a factory with more than one hundred years of shoe making experience. It is this mix of continuous design, in combination with cutting edge technology and traditional craftsmanship, which makes this a truly unique shoe company. These are shoes worth waiting for. By releasing a shoe every month, they design for every occasion throughout the year. These are a treat for those winter holidays taken in sunnier climates than London. Now, all I need to is escape this gloomy city...

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Ceci n'est pas une t-shirt

One of the few locations which my team failed to reach during the Antwerp Fashion Hunt was Hospital. Thankfully, we swung by the concept store on Sunday afternoon to have a nosey around the huge space. The luxury boutique is housed in the former horse stables of Antwerp's race course (which sadly no longer exists) and stocks both Belgian and international designer brands, including the likes of Viktor & Rolf, Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, Paul Smith, Paul & Joe and Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair but also boasts of a terrific wine cellar and restaurant. However, as good as the other offerings were I entered the store with the sole aim of indulging in some much needed retail therapy...I headed straight to the Viktor & Rolf Monsieur rail...

A look inside the Hospital

From afar, Viktor & Rolf Monsieur served up a surprisingly reserved affair for Aw09. At first glance it lacked the colour, the humour and interesting themes of previous offerings. However, upon closer examination inside Hospital, it was clear that the design duo had created something special. The design duo had borrowed some of my favorite motifs used by René Magritte and created a collection which can be mixed and matched with ease whilst never failing to raise a wry smile...if I had been wearing a bowler hat it would have been tipped.

Looks from Viktor & Rolf Monsieur AW09

Magritte wanted to make people think about what he called "the mystery without which the world would not exist," by showing familiar objects in dreamlike and even surroundings. He believed that all objects are rationally related to each other and certainly explored the relationships between objects in his paintings. The objects painted by Magritte suggest an inherent meaning independent from the viewers' previous experiences, opinions and ideas and as a result, the objects become 'concrete universals.' Similarly, in Viktor & Rolf's collection, a black suit which from my initial squint at the look book appeared to be a simple, textured houndstooth had in fact used smoking pipe pattern and the rest of the designs were packed full of surprises. Bowler hat prints covered dress shirts, bow ties were padded and the herringbone pattern of a mackintosh coat was actually a printed-on nylon...nothing was quite what it initially appeared.

My purchase from Hospital...a cute Viktor & Rolf Monsieur t shirt.

My favourite piece was the T-shirt depicting a pipe-smoking man, with his face obscured by a large green apple. When I saw it hanging on the rails of Hospital I just had to have it! Here I am back home in grey London modelling the new purchase on my balcony half asleep. I'm not too good in the early morning! Annoyingly I have lots of pieces I'd like to show you guys but these super short Autumn days are really limiting my opportunity to shoot them. More of these personal shots to come and I promise I'll look (a little) less dishevelled in the next batch...

New tshirt worn with Carolyn Massey for Topman Lens scarf coat, hanging mittens by Carolyn Massey (you never know how cold it is going to turn), grey double pleated trousers from COS and patent shoes by Swear.

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Hear the RA all the way from Antwerp

Peeking behind the reclaimed foam curtain of RA's changing rooms.

Susie might have beaten me to the punch on this and pick pocketed my memory card for a couple of shots to rub salt in to my wounded features but this concept store is too good not to mention here. RA13 will officially open next week but we were given a sneak preview of the huge space (800 sq metres) which is already crammed full of wonder and intrigue even thought most of it was still packed in boxes. When we arrived at the store we were greeted with a dust and sawdust plume as the builders were still frantically working (even on a Sunday) on creating a truly magical space complete with a thatched cottage buying area, reclaimed cinema seating for a music area and an outdoor forest to name but a few features.

It is when we entered the fashion space that we quickly realised how exciting this store was. Not just for the city of Antwerp but for anyone close enough to hop on to a Eurostar to make the trip. Dan The Scout walked us through the huge space and talked us through the array of design talent which left both of us motionless, tongues out, salivating like two hungry stray dogs who had just wandered in to the finest butchers in town. The full lineup is mind blowing and in truth I am too lazy to type them up so I will just give you a few of the names which are currently creating quite the stir my loins; Gareth Pugh, Damir Doma, Juun J, Frank Leder, Ute Ploier, Material Boy, Makin Jan Ma, Peter Jensen and Katie Eary. I was able to nose through the well stocked Frank Leder rail and it was the first time that I had seen his designs up close and I was particularly taken with the outerwear and accessories.

The designs reminded me of the designer. In all honesty, he is a deisnger I'm not too familiar with as I've never been able to buy his design. For this season, Frank Leder continues to weave the story of the ordinary man into the fabric of his own label and this time focusses on the Bavarian poacher. The collection incorporates authentic elements from the inspiration and Dan pointed each feature out to me as we . For example, the designer crafted horn closures from deer antlers (which I'm assured are naturally shed each winter) and shirts were made from antique sheets from the 1960’s. It was great to be able to feel (and possibly buy) designs which previously I had only ever seen online.

In addition to the bounty of design talent hanging on the rails throughout the three hundred square metre fashion space, the store is going to be home to a music area, a bookstore, exhibition area, food area as well as a designer vintage section. Ra promises to be a melting pot for fashion, art, design, music, books and even fine fine food. A quick shopping visit here will no doubt turn in to a long stay as each one of my senses is treated. The experience will start in the Kloosterstraat 13 in the heart of Antwerp giving one persuasive reason for my swift return but then the team wish to extend the experience throughout the virtual world of soon to be relaunched http://www.ra13.be/. I have previously mentioned that my ultimate dream is to one day open my own menswear store and I even have blueprints bouncing around in my brain. Well, it seems that two recent Royal Academy of Antwerp graduates, Romain Brau and Anna Kushnerova, who came together at a party and dreamed up this project have infiltrated my inner thoughts and are about to unleash a store which is a doppelganger to that of dreams (albeit on a much larger scale). I just cannot wait to shop here...

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Louis, Louis, oh baby...

So for those who didn't see my twitter update on Saturday afternoon, we finished (a close) third (out of three) in the Fashion Hunt around Antwerp. The teams who finished in front of us demonstrated a combination of map reading accuracy and speed whilst we showcased a more gentle, measured approach, meandering our way through the city whilst taking far too many photos (as Susie's pretty collages demonstrate). In short, Aesop lied...slow and steady doesn't win the race when you are up against stylish, highly motivated and organised bloggers from Amsterdam and Paris! Despite coming last we had a lot of fun and our efforts were rewarded with gift vouchers to spend at either; Hospital (a relatively new concept store housed in a former horse stables), Elsa (a shoe and accessory boutique) and last but certainly not least Louis. Despite currently suffering from shoe buying fever I resisted the temptation for yet another whiff of that new shoe smell and headed to Louis...

Where I invested my wooden spoon prize...

An Antwerp institution, Louis was one of the first stores in Belgium to carry the work of the local and considerable design talent. Today, the boutique carries a sizable collection of Maison Martin Margiela and pieces by A.F. Vandevorst and Ann Demeulemeester. In addition to local designer fare, the shop also stocks Rick Owens, Balenciaga, and Lanvin to name only a few. Having had to recently throw away the only piece of Margiela in my wardrobe (a white tshirt bought cheaply from Century21 which just fell apart from far too much wear and tear) and inspired by oki-ni's recently unveiled archive/shrine to the influential Belgian designer, I headed straight to the MMM pieces.

The Maison Martin Margiela accessories caught my eye as soon as we entered the menswear area.

The inner Geography teacher lurking deep inside of me was instantly drawn to the ultra soft knitwear complete with fine grain leather elbow patches. I was initially taken with the camel v-neck cardigan (also available on oki-ni) but ultimately my mixed feelings towards the colour forced me to look again. In the end I plumped for a simple, softer than soft, v neck knit complete with matching leather elbow pads in an autumnal shade of forest green.

A close up on those shoulder pads, Miss Ash (my old Geography teacher) would be so proud.

The October Look from Fantastic Man that divided you lot has certainly left an impression on me. My initial style admiration has evolved in to something much more consumerist. The time where I jump in to some crisp Autumn leaves whilst singing 'Kumbayah' might be sooner than you think!

Carolyn Massey for Topman Lens scarf coat, new Maison Martin Margiela knit, blue corduroy shirt, purple jeans and grey socks all from Uniqlo, bag from COS and shoes by Mr. Hare.

Catastrophe almost struck though when my stomach cravings for something typically Belgian diverted my attentions away from my new purchase. After filling my craving belly by scoffing down a giant, ice cream topped waffle from the too tempting Desire de Lille all thoughts about my recent purchase evaporated and I left my shopping bag under neath the table. Thankfully a fellow diner chased after me as I waddled off down the street and reintroduced me to my forgotten friend. Catastrophe averted thanks to the fine people of Antwerp!

A close up of the tasty waffle which almost cost me my knit.

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Old Curiosity Shopping

The wonderful Old Curiosity Shop captured by Dazed Digital

It was a beautiful sunny day in London today and I spent it wandering the town and visiting my favourite stores and looking in on a few new ones. The first stop on my shopping tour was the beautiful Old Curiosity Shop which was of course immortalised by the Dickens' novel of the same name and is apparently the oldest shop in London (it was built in 1567). If the history of the building wasn't enough, the store now holds BLAAK's aw 08 collection and some beautiful handcrafted footwear and accessories by some designers handpicked by the design duo to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the brand. With it's cottage like appearance and all together parochial feel, it seems like an odd location for cutting edge London designers to be selling their collections but this make it all the more special.

As well as selling their own A/W 08-9 collection (highlights shown above), BLAAK have selected other products to sit alongside such as Oliver Goldsmith glasses exclusively made for BLAAK or Daiko Kimura's handcrafted shoes. If you find yourself around the Holborn area (or anywhere in London for that matter) you have to visit this store, if it wasn't for the lack of funds I would've bought a number of pieces and left and extremely happy chap...Despite not being able to afford anything, the cornucopia of curiosities make it a must see.

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Reader's questions: A New Yorker in London

London Calling - image from the iconic Clash's album cover.

Believe it or not, we've had our second question from a reader. It feels extremely strange that people ask us things, we are far from experts on anything. That said we can help out on this question because we both have a wealth of experience and most importantly an opinion on the matter in hand. This one's came from Daniel Osburn who moving from New York to London wants to avoid any sartorial faux pas during his sojourn in the UK. His email read as follows:

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Steve and/or EJ --

First of all, let me say I've been reading your blog for some time and very much enjoy it.

Second of all, and possibly more creepy, I need some advice. I'm a native New Yorker who is moving to London tomorrow (Thursday) for a job at Conde Nast. Awfully, while I've traveled across America and Canada quite a bit, I've never made the leap overseas. I don't know what to expect at all.

I've packed a sort of capsule wardrobe -- a suit, slacks, jeans, a few shirts and tees, a couple lightweight sweaters and a few pairs of slick shoes. I understand the climate, and style (!!!), of London is going to be incredibly different from here in New York, and was wondering if you could make suggestions so that I don't look like the "typical American" bumming around your country. I want to assimilate as much as I possibly can.

Any other tips, aside from threads, for making a new life in a new city would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,

Daniel Osburn

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Exciting times Daniel! Firstly, good luck with the move! Secondly, I hear you all cry, what is our answer? What are those pearls of wisdom you've been waiting for? For us, the answer is simple: be yourself. We're guessing you're not one of those Americans who's going to go around in a tracksuit or garish Hawaiian shirt with 2 massive cameras slung round your neck, shouting to anyone who'll listen about how terrible the UK is in comparison with the big ol' US of A while cramming your face with burgers and soft drinks (ah, stereotypes...although we do get them, they can normally be seen watching street performers in Covent Garden) so we reckon you'll fit in ok (your packing proves this!). The thing about London is that most of London isn't populated by Londoners. Or even Britons for that matter. It's such a mish mash of cultures and styles where pretty much anything goes. People will probably appreciate any quirks of dressing you bring with you - hell, you may even start some new trends. I suppose this links with what Steve wrote about hipster globalisation, but to be honest we think London's always been this way... a melting pot of style by its very nature...so many tourists and all sorts of visitors (long term and short) that they're bound to influence London's fashion sense, even being mistaken for "proper Londoners" and muddying the waters further.

All that said, if you get here and fancy doing a bit of shopping, below are a few our suggestions to get you started:

Steve's been dreaming of creating his own shop guide on the blog for some time now, simply because there just isn't enough information out there (as part of Men Represent we want to kick start the shopping guide because it's a daunting task and we need your help). That said, Timeout recently featured a top menswear list which is a worhwhile read. Steve's favourite stores include bstore, DSM and Liberty (simply the best department stores in London and so damn different), Hurwendeki, Uniqlo, Selfridges, Start and when I'm feeling brave enough, Topman. In terms of recommended areas I love strolling around the Carnaby Street area which has improved significantly over the last 6 months or so; Kingly Court is a great place to find interesting vintage pieces, 22 provides great, affordable footwear (Swear shoes), Hurwendeki, Concrete and Size are on the street or close by to name just a few highlights. To see a different London we recommend heading East, where you can shop for clothes and music (Rough Trade and Pure Groove come highly recommended), eat cheaply and take part in the most wonderful pastime (which will help you assimilate to your new home) of people watching. If you want a shopping companion just drop Steve an email and he will more than likely be up for showing you around!

Have you got any advice for a New Yorker in London?

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Wake me up when the blue bells are ringing

There has been a change in the air in London over the weekend and I fear we have seen the last of Summer. In many ways it is a nice change because the hot, sticky air has been replaced by one which is altogether more agreeable and comfortable but we all know where this leads...to months of rain, grey skies and chattering teeth. There will be a time over the course of the next few months where my initial rejoicing of the renewed ability to layer and wrap myself up in rich textures and bountiful fabrics will be replaced with a whining voice eager to see the sun again, to see Spring. Blue bells are one of the first signs of Spring that I look out for but Blue Bell's of an altogether different kind have popped up for a six week period on Lambs Conduit Street.

Blue Bell, Wrangler's premium denim brand has picked one of my favourite streets to open its first-ever retail store. For me, there is no better way to spend an hour on a Saturday afternoon than to meander down Holborn's Lambs Conduit Street armed with my camera. As Monocle mentioned in Issue 16, it is the perfect street for a stroll, some tapas and more interestingly for us, a little retail renaissance. Independent retail is key to the street's success and the delicate assortment of small fashion labels like Folk, Pokit and Oliver Spencer mixed with a tailor, a bike repair shop, booksellers and a record shop combine to make this a street to truly cherish.

The pop up store at 47 Lambs Conduit Street (astute readers might recall that Universal Works recently popped up at the same location) showcases products from AW09, the debut season for Wrangler’s relaunched Blue Bell brand. The store has been transformed for Bluebell to compliment the antiquated feel of the street. Warm woods and natural textiles have been utilised across the shop’s interior creating a welcoming environment.

Blue Bell’s American heritage has been channelled throughout the store fit with subtle references in the vintage jars, antique striped cotton and painted flags which almost provoke a chorus of 'Oh say, can you see..'. The collection itself hangs on vintage hangers on customised steel rails decorated with vintage, knotted handkerchiefs. I could easily have spent another hour or two in there taking everything in. If you ever find yourself in Central London and want to escape the hustle and bustle of Oxford Street, Regents Street and Soho I urge you to escape to Lambs Conduit Street.

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Style Salvage Speaks to... bStore

The UK used to be known as the nation of shopkeepers but over the years the retail landscape has changed from busy, bustling stores to empty and even boarded up shop fronts. We can honestly count the number of exciting stores in London using our fingers. One finger outstretched is for the fashion mecca that is bstore. Savile Row's bStore needs no introduction but for those of you who are a little slow, it is an independent boutique which has supported some of the most exciting design talent to emerge in recent years. In addition to the store, b Store's partners Kirk Beattie, José Neves and Matthew Murphy have added to the brand by launching a magazine (b paper), their own clothing line (b Clothing) which is going from strength to strength and their renowned footwear line (b Footwear). We were fortunate enough to talk shop and toast the existence of one of the best menswear brands in London with its proprietor Matthew Murphy...

Kirk and Matthew posing in store for Ponystep.

Style Salvage: How did it all start for you? What were your inspirations, your dreams and the driving catalyst behind it all?
Matthew Murphy: I met Jose and he wanted to open a flagship store for his footwear brand b. We (Kirk, Mathew and Jose) then came up with the concept to open a store in Central London that would not only showcase the complete b collection but would buy in products from young creatives. It would be a platform for young designers. Our vision was to launch b as a brand but with an identity, we also felt there was no store in London at the time that supported the amount of young talent coming out of the London colleges.

SS: What was the first and last item you remember selling in the store?
MM: The first item was a pair of b store white oxford shoe's, this went onto being one of our best selling shoes. A Bernhard Willhelm belted men's jersey dress was the last.

SS: bstore moved to its current Savile Row location in 2006 from Conduit Street, how was the reaction from the tailors of this most famous street? Was your move to Savile Row a calculated move, or more of a chance opportunity?
MM: We have been accepted slowly, not that anyone was against but in the last year a few of the tailor's have ventured into the store to understand what we are about. We had outgrown our Conduit Street store but felt we needed to stay in the area, so when the store came available on Savile Row it was an opportunity we could not miss.

bstore popped in to Selfridges last September. Image courtesy of DazedDigital.

SS: When we think of bstore we have an overriding sense that it represents something 'new', from the desire to showcase new creative talent to how you go about selling it but it really isn't new anymore, how do you do it?
MM: We have never changed our vision. Our brand has evolved and become our main focus but we have continued to support young artists and designers and constantly look to work with new creatives to continue to push the store forward.

SS: Collaboration with creative talent is an integral part of your brand identity, (art installations, working with graduates, etc). What have been your favourite collaborations to date? Who would you love to work with in the future?
MM: We did a t-shirt collaboration with Judy Blame about four years ago, both the t shirt's and party were very memorable. The latest collab with G-Shock has been great fun and we are really pleased with the watches. If we could do something with David Bowie that would be our dream, he is a constant source of inspiration for us.

SS: Do you believe that the way men and women shop really is fundamentally different- i.e. men are 'hunter-gatherers' and more focused on what they want while women accumulate and adapt? How do you think online shopping has affected this?
MM: They are definitely completely different shoppers, men are very brand/shop loyal, once they feel comfortable they tend to return... where as women are always looking for the new thing, our women's area has to be regularly re-invented, adding new designers each season.

b store's AW09 collection plays with proportions...making us rethink high waisted trousers along the way.

SS: If such a thing exists can you describe your typical day.
MM: Unfortunately there is not a typical day... we have a very small team, so we have to wear many hats each day, designers, creatives, sales... the list goes on.

SS: How did it feel to show your AW09 collection at the extended Menswear afternoon at LFW? Did you get a chance to see any of the shows other shows? Who did you enjoy most?
MM: We were honoured to be asked to be part of the day. There has been and still is so much menswear talent in London, this showcase is something that has been desperately needed for a while. We showed back to back with our good friend Tim Soar and his collection was quite amazing.

SS: The store has been something of a fashion mecca for fresh talent, like Bernhard Willhelm, Carola Euler and Damir Doma. Who are your favourite emerging designers? How do you find the labels and new talent that you stock?
MM: We are lucky enough that the store has gained a reputation for launching new designers, so we don't have to do as much research as most come to us now. New talent's are Natascha Stolle for womenswear and Peter Perret for menswear.

SS: How do you see the bstore brand developing over the next couple of years?
MM: Our intention is to continue growing the brand in both size and distribution. In the future we hope this will mean we will be able to open corners in other stores with both our brand and brand collaborations. We have already collaborated with a milliner, bag designer, jeweller, so to continue this would be great.

Playing in the fields, two looks from b paper.

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?

MM: High waisted trousers, they add a bit of elegance

SS: How would you describe your own personal style?
MM: Modern

SS: If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?
MM: The beat generation

SS: Finally, what are you favourite pieces currently available from bstore?
MM: bstore tweed raglan sleeve mac, heavy soled b store brogue, Tim Soar high waist two pleat dogtooth trouser, Peter Jensen oversized tweed blazer.

Two of our favourite bStore Aw09 look book shots

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Ordinarily we end our 'Speaks to' features with a collection of our interviewees recommendations but there was no need with Matthew because bstore have their own, great London guide online. Their guide features tips from the likes of Carola Euler, Tim Soar and Peter Jenson and is well worth a read.

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A magpie's loot - Silver Hi Tops

I've been on the lookout for another pair of (relatively affordable - I can't quite get away with Raf Simons and Lanvin right now) hi tops for some time now. I have far too many pairs of shoes - I have become a collector without even realising it. I seem to find it impossible to walk past shoe displays and racks of white shirts whenever I go shopping; I think I need therapy. I saw these silver hit tops on the bstore site for some time but it wasn't until I saw them up close that I really wanted (needed) them not to mention that they were a steal at £89. EJ posted about silver trainers in her Spring time post and I think there is an inner magpie in us both, how about you? I recently read Lucas Ossendrijver's style tips on men.style (as pointed out by Brandish) and like most have fallen in love with the look of Lanvin. A pair of hi tops can look great either worn with jeans or with suit trousers...I am looking for nonchalent style.

The hi tops from bstore worn with APC jeans, striped t shirt from American Apparel and People's Market DJ.

My inner shoe collector is already on to the next pair of hi tops... these Lanvin's are breathtaking... I might just have to raid the piggy bank. You can't have too many pairs of shoes... can you?

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Style Salvage Speaks to... Daniel Jenkins

Meet the boutique owner who is quoted as saying “We’re going to bitch slap Oki-Ni into the next century” in a recent issue of Arena...

You may have seen the feature over at Stylebubble but we were fortunate enough to get an interview with the man himself. Daniel Jenkins is a thoroughly nice bloke. A nice bloke with a HELL of a lot to say about men's fashion. Which is a good thing really since he owns his own store in a small town in Wales, stocking labels which are hard to find (including and i, Satyenkumar, Chronicles of Never, Unconditional... the list is impressive and long...)

When we arranged to do an interview with him he had so much to say that it almost doesn't seem like an interview any more (in the best way possible of course) it is more of an exploration of menswear today with a shop owner who is going his own way. We asked him a number of questions and rather than restrict himself to the confines of a few sentences here and there he combined a number of them to create something alot more coherant and insightful than a standard interview. What follows are his thoughts on men's designers, regional dressing, Wales, the influence a recession has on the way we dress and his advice for would-be shop keepers (Steve). We hope you enjoy.

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Whilst reading history at Liverpool University I worked at a number of stores including, for the longest time, ‘Cricket’. I was heavily involved in the Club scene in the North West and the a+r of the music industry. So many of the people I saw dressed as if they had a mirror reflecting only one part of their body at a time. I was sure that the resultant disjuncture was unintentional. After all, no man would willingly allow himself to be insulted by his tailor. The Street maybe cluttered by rude boy nonsense but it is inherently honest. Catwalk fashion for men lacks energy and far from being innovative is merely desperate to appear so. There are honourable exceptions. Designers who maintained a style and quality of manufacture, who employed interesting material interestingly. Satyenkumar being superb.

Men throughout the U.K., not just Wales, are rejecting the shoddy, generic tat that the High Street has pumped out for years. They have grown weary of the “like it or lump it” attitude whereby the chain stores patronise them. They do not want “in your face clothes” as an alternative. They want comfort that comes from fit and the careful manufacture of good materials into a recognisable style which is personal and reflective of the whole image of themselves they wish to put out there. When they want to be emphatic they still do not want to be theatrical. Clothes not costumes.

There is no national dress. There is no regional dress. Yes, ratcatchers tie their corduroys below the knee and scallys wear track suits. A vocational or tribal homogeneity exists both horizontally and vertically in a stratified society. Any retailer who focuses so narrowly soon finds his constituency has become a pressure group. Thinking globally, acting locally, in the internet age is not a geographic conceit. The locality is the interface between designer and customer, me. Your vision should make itself manifest after sufficient contemplation. Mine did and can be read by any competent interpreter of dress in the clothes I have chosen to sell.

You should never be pleased with yourself. That is why I am constantly adding to and subtracting from. Next season will see the addition of Siv Stovald, Saviour and Fred Perry by Raf Simons.

Monmouth may not be ready for this. It is an edgy introspective place which has seen people come and go. It does not give its heart easily. Achingly beautiful, aloof and with the self sufficiency of Kenneth Graham’s badger. I love it.

(The rest of the interview followed the more obvious interview format)

Wales certainly isn't known for its menswear... or shopping in general for that matter, so what made you choose Monmouth (with a population of 8407); was it to begin a sartorial revolution or did you just fall in love with the Grade II listed building?

Where else would a clothes obsessed Welsh historian of limited means open? The shop is Grade II listed and small enough for me not to need staff. I live above it. Although our website increases its sales month by month, I have no doubt the shop reassures people I exist. I am there. The Internet will expand only as long as customers trust it.

Have you got any plans up your sleeve for expansion? Would you love to see branches of your shop on every high street or do you prefer the one-off boutique way of doing things?

Will I ever leave Monmouth? I will always want a base here. I do not want a chain of shops but I shall open a small store in Paris, Rome and New York where I will sell British manufactured menswear by the designers who share my vision. They will be staffed by cheerful people who know what they are talking about and who do not want to score points off their customers. It will not happen next week. I come back to it. It is always about the clothes.

Who are your style icons?

Icon perhaps isn’t the right word. There are certainly people I look up to and admire. These change regularly ranging from Stefano Pilati, Paul Smith – I think I was probably the only 10 year old with a working knowledge of his work, my father – little did I know it but his ability to mix bespoke with wearing early stone island with other cutting edge labels (they were at the time!) influenced me greatly. Others include Iain Richardson in House of Cards, the stiffness of the suit. James Dean in Rebel without a cause, Steve McQueen in Thomas Crown Affair, Mad Men’s Roger Sterling. I expect you catch my drift.

Have you noticed any major trends this year?

Trends are usually a waste of time. Most men don’t pick up on them until a couple of years down the line. We are still all slavishly sticking to the ‘rock star/faux indie look’ whilst apparently we are supposed to have moved on. I am seeing a slight move towards being a bit more preppy. Men are slowly losing the overly baggy shorts and wearing things that are slightly more tapered with clean lines. This is also linked in with current economic crisis. Men are buying more big ticket items but not touching more disposable fare. We always dress better during recession. Especially given that the High Street for men has so far to go to be a palatable option. Cleaner lines are easier to wear now and in a years time and several classic pieces are great to come back to as long as the quality is there. It’s paramount to our buying that everything we stock is made well and in good materials. Otherwise it’s just disposable art.

What items of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?

I’d love to see men throw off the shackles and be a little bit more experimental. I find that the majority of guys want to but don’t know how to. We are very poorly served in this country – well once you leave the clutches of the M25 behind. Stores believe that men all want to wear the same label. This is seriously at odds with out sartorial history. Pretty much every shift in how men dress has come from the UK. If we all wear Lyle and Scott and Gstar it’ll never happen. The problem with this is we consume a lot of fairly high priced clothes but sacrifice the individuality. It’s criminal to my mind that Satyenkumar and and-i - according to the press, two of Britain's brightest talents - are impossible to get hold of. Satyen makes items for us in such small numbers if would be silly to put series number on them. And-i have a thriving label outside of the UK. All the major world stores carry it. UK non-existent.

Do you believe that the way men and women shop really is fundamentally different- i.e. men are 'hunter-gatherers' and more focussed on what they want while women accumulate and adapt?

As you know, I have very recently started to stock womenswear. You probably have the London Fashion Week “Newsflash” to hand. Open it and count the photographs: 85 womenswear and 6 menswear. Women are no better served by the chains than men. They are not convinced that a surfeit necessarily increases choice. It just hides that needle in a bigger haystack. They like a wander round the shops. Well, so do I. But women are more optimistic. A man knows he will be bored rigid and will not find anything he wants in his size. So he browses the net. It is as focussing mechanism. Do women just assimilate and adapt? Do they buy an item only to work on it later? Hardly. Both images are stereotypes which a wise man passes on tip toe.

Finally, Steve has dreams of opening his own menswear store one day: what advice would you give anyone aspiring to do what you have done?

You want your own store? Stay sober and keep the batteries of your bullshit detector charged.

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The Casual Tailor pops up in London

The launch of the Casual Tailor pop up store.

We appear to be in a period of Pop Up retail here in London and I for one am finding it a little difficult keeping up with the sprouting retail havens but am certainly enjoying the variety of stores to visit. My recent consumer adventures have felt like a carousel ride so it is a good thing that I enjoy fun fairs. Only last week, I mentioned the opening of Hentsch Man and 143 and now Onetruesaxon have appeared on one of my favourite London streets, Lambs Conduit Street. Following the opening of the Onetruesaxon ‘Casual Tailor’ Store in the heart of their home town of Nottingham a year ago, the label has brought their Casual Tailor style store to London for a six week period only.

Inside the pop up store.

Although I am somewhat familiar with the brand it is great to be able to see the garments up close. For me, this is one of the most obvious positives with regard to Pop Up retail spaces. The brand, set up by "ordinary blokes obsessed with decent clothing" are showcasing premium quality garments from their Spring / Summer 09 collections, as well as those of their friends from the world of classic design and style, including Corgi, Trumper and Sunspel.

The bags are a particular favourite.

With echoes of the ‘Casual Tailor’ store nestled in a quiet side street of Nottingham’s lace market, the quiet community of Lambs Conduit Street seems like the perfect destination for the gentleman’s outfitter styled store. The street (as profiled by Monocle last year) symbolises what can be achieved in retail areas as it champions a real community spirit and this pop up store fits in nicely.

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Mapping Out

For the last few months we've been collecting together the recommendations of our interviewees of places to go to shop, eat, drink and generally enjoy yourself. We've now put these together on one handy map, along with details of who recommended it and a link to the place's website where possible. This is going to be very much a work in progress and we will be adding new shops and the like as we discover them or as they are recommended to us. Feel free to comment with anything you feel that we should add and we'll no doubt include your recommendations as well.

To explore the map in full click the image below!

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There is nothing wrong with being a Hentsch Man

The night before last, I partook in one of my guiltiest of pleasures and encountered news I just had to share with you (I promise there is nothing to be frightened of, please continue reading). This time, my guilty pleasure has nothing to do with magazines which I really should not read given my gender and age (I stand by Teen Vogue, ha!) but involved me lying in a bubble bath whilst listening to the Monocle Weekly. During the latter stages of my soak (just before my skin resembled a prune) my ears pricked up by the introduction of Alexia Hentsch and the mention of her new pop-up shop, Hentsch Man. The store has opened today in Notting Hill and will be open for two weeks. I plan on visiting this weekend to inspect the well designed Spring/Summer wardrobe stables on offer which include slim fitted shirts, tailored trousers, Mediterranean espadrilles and plimsolls. The design ethos of the brand and the idea of the pop up store struck a chord with me and I just had to let you know about it.

There really isn't too much information on the store or even the brand available but my curiosity and love of all things pop up led me to their website (which has just been launched). We are told that Hentsch Man is a simple, elegant and wearable menswear brand which offers classic wardrobe basics, something my Summer wardrobe is actually in need of so a trip to the store this weekend is most timely. The idea behind the brand evolved from a seemingly simple search (in theory not practice) for the perfect white shirt which is a staple in any man’s wardrobe yet so difficult to find. The two friends (Max and Alexia) set about designing their perfect shirt and when they felt they got it right, they placed a small order. Without compromising their core values of simplicity and function, the pair expanded the shirt collection, adding trousers, boxer shorts, and footwear, to create a more complete menswear collection which has now found its temporary home. Inspired by an article in Monocle's retail issue they decided to find a location for their pop up store and after searching and searching they found the Kensington Park Road location.

A selection of Hentsch Man displayed on the site. For them 'their wardrobe is important to them, but not their primary concern.'

Hentsch Man is aimed at young men with a refined aesthetic sense and I'm sure most of you will fit in to that category. The products are aimed at people know a good thing when they see it, but don’t necessarily have the time or the patience to scour the earth to furnish their wardrobe. The store aims to be a one-stop-shop for basic staples – from a classic white shirt, to well-tailored trousers and the occasional accessory. You might just be a Hentsch Man this Spring/Summer and in my mind there really is nothing wrong with that.

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